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The plumbers want to know if they can have their 1/4'' marker pen back for their detailed work. :lol:

thanks lola, was thinking of the plane but again was worried about planing across the end grain. Panel saw? is this essentially a wood saw with more TPI for better finish. Cheers for taking time to reply.

at 10 yrs old I dont believe they will regardless of the servicing. Look at the terms and conditions on the heateam website.

hello all. I have some lovely oak (machined) doors. I've got to trim around 5-6mm off the top and bottom and have put a lovely new blade in my circular saw and have clamped wood to either side to stop and damage as saw comes out sideways to grain, but the fekkin thing seems to insist on...

or strip it down, clean off scale and apply a bit of silicone grease. Thats the british way Kev, "make do and mend"! :lol:

thats not my interpretation. if it is within 750mm of the surface or outside whether or not it is inconcrete etc it should be lagged until it enters the thermal envelope of the property. certainly if you look at the diagrams in the wras guide to the water regs I think this supports this.

750-1350mm deep. should be insulated where it enters the property if the distance from the outside ground level to the pipe is less than this at any point. Would love to do drawing to illustrate this but this is ChrisR's forte and he may think i'm upstaging him

why did your installer not attempt to isolate where the drop was occuring before replacing expensive parts? would it not be easier to isolate the relevant parts if the circuit first and see if the problem persists?

the L stands for part l. there was a small change in the fan/flue hood assembly to increase the efficiency. additionally the slightly later L models have a flow switch on the flow wired into the air pressure switch.

don't call him shurley

and the lockshields at the same time..

actually ignore that. have just read your full post :oops:

try reading install and servicng guide. can help no more than to say the answer is in there and your first post

i'd say its just as likely to be the orientation of the cold feed in relation to the expansion pipeshould ideally be between the separator and the pump. Apologies if i've duplicated anyones posts-its late and had a long day.

as mikey really. far easiest and cheapest would be an internal mechanical timeclock for the performa. wiring is all in place in boiler clock panel.

I'm trying to picture what your descibing. It's sounds a bodge. Ideally you should avoid bends in the wet part of your stack as this can cause loss of trap seals, though I'm not sure if this is what your describing. Maybe some piccy's will help

apply mastic to the back of the basin and you'll have to knock the wall down around the basin to get it off. (Obviously screw it though, as well)

Shallow seal was only permittable where the grey water dropped into a hopper head. I suggest you all take a look at Axel's post regarding nursery rhymes and there application of part H. Shame on you all :lol:

That Hanzel and Gretel story shows a complete disregard for approved building materials , though I'd hate to think where to even start. I'm just glad I wasn't the joiner who put down Rumplestilztskin's flooring. Where there's a blame, there's a claim!!

be sure to follow the installation instructions the letter re pipework venting etc