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That sounds ideal. For reference, what combination of boiler / controls manufacturers (and models) do you use to achieve your setup please?

That's a very well-explained set of reasons - fair enough. It goes to show that different people have different preferences, I guess...

I agree. I grew up in a 1970s house with warm air heating. My parents still live there. Excellent system. Heats the house up from cold really quickly. No radiators anywhere.

As you say, various news articles describe prosecutions of professionals who were qualified, but not competent. Which rather muddies the "competence must be proved by having qualifications" argument... If a gas appliance has been installed / repaired perfectly, then it's impossible for anyone...

Thanks for taking the trouble to share your experiences (y). It's very good to hear directly from someone like yourself who obviously has such a lot of practical knowledge.

Could you explain the "fallacy" bit please Gasguru? I have always been under the impression that a feed / expansion tank assures plenty of oxygen in the system water to feed the corrosion process. What am I misunderstanding? Thanks!

If it's a 4-pipe system boiler, its internal diverter valve should be in operation, and not the external Y-plan one. If it's plumbed as a 2-pipe boiler, I think (but someone qualified should verify this) that the internal diverter's electrical connector should be unplugged, and the external...

The heat loss you have calculated is, I think, at a nominal outside temperature near freezing. So for the 95% of the days in the year when it's not freezing outside, your heat loss will be significantly less even than the figure you have calculated, and below that of *any* boiler.

The hot water boiler is separate (although in the same metal case) as the hot air heater. It is designed to have the pilot light on all the time, so that the burner can light when hot water is required. It's probably a gravity-circulating hot water heating system, so it would take hours to...

I stand by my statement, but I have no desire to argue with such a respected, experienced, and helpful member of these forums as yourself. Best wishes.

One of the advantages of warm air heating is (was!) the very quick warm-up from cold, compared to water-filled radiators.

Personally, I too use compression fittings instead of push-fit for the reasons you outline. Of course, the best joint is no joint at all - that's where the flexibility of plastic pipe really is an advantage over rigid lengths of copper.

I find that most garden hoses can be persuaded to push over a 15mm pipe directly. Softening the hose in a mug of hot water is often necessary.

What type of insert had you used in the pipe?

Assuming you have a well-insulated cylinder (if not, why not?), why not just time the hot water to be on from 7am to 11pm? The heat lost is negligible, and may even be useful if the cylinder's in an airing cupboard. Sounds like a lot less faff, and you will have hot water whenever you open the...

You can cut CT1 with a stanley knife or piano wire, can't you?

Also, related to your first point, no way for extra oxygen to get introduced into the system water through the (non-existant) F&E tank so much less opportunity for internal corrosion. No chance of pumping over.

is a strange turn of phrase. I'm no expert, but I think it's been a long time since pipe work "could be used for earth bonding"?

Isn't the only advantage of open-vented that the radiator circuit pressure will be lower, so is less likely to leak immediately if it's on its last legs? Otherwise, if the pipes and radiators are in OK condition, why would anybody want to stay open-vented?

Is your house badly insulated? If not, why not reconfigure your system to be hot water priority? That way, the whole of the boiler's power can go towards re-heating / maintaining the HW temperature (assuming the indirect coil is up to it). Also, with hot water priority, there's a chance your...