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Self Binding Gravels are a pain in situations where chairs may be scuffed. You may be able to use a combination of slabs and pea gravel. This would reduce cost but also provide a stable surface for tables/chairs to sit.

Adding fines is not an issue. Vibration from whacker plates can cause larger stones to rise to the surface but sprinkling some fines over the area and recompacting will sort it. It is also recommended that you level the stone with a shovel rather than a rake as a rake will separate the larger...

Self Binding Gravel tends to scuff when tables/chairs are dragged across it

Make sure the crushed concrete has plenty of fines in or it won't compact and the larger material within the CC will come to the surface over time. Personally, for the difference in cost I wouldn't mess around and would go straight in with Type 1. Do it right, do it once.

It would be ok to level up the low spots but you need 4-6 inches of good quality topsoil for the grass to grow properly. The grass colour will be really patchy otherwise. The sandy soil you describe is most likely upper subsoil which is unlikely to support a good lawn.

Are you sure that isn't ducting for an electric cable?

Yes, the most common bedding layer nowadays is 2-6mm Clean Stone It has a better load bearing ability and is more free draining I believe.

They shouldn't whack down at all. The sand base needs to be fully compacted before laying.

Must remove the topsoil, it hold too much moisture. A compacted sub base of Type 1 followed by your chosen surface will ensure it lasts. You will find slate very difficult to sit tables and chairs on I'm afraid due to it's shape.

Sand will wash out over time. Much better to set them on a mortar bed. You can buy 25kg bags of ready mix from DIY stores. Just add water. Will be a much better job and will avoid those rocky slabs.

Membranes need to go under the sub base to create separation and stabilisation between the sub-base (i.e. Type 1) and Sub Grade (i.e. the ground below), not under the finished surface. Slate is fine for a path although 40mm will be a bit chunky to walk on. Woven Membranes are permeable to water...

Looks like they are doing a good job to be fair. Look on the bright side, they could have not bothered haunching at all and you would have a lovely lawn but with edging blocks that move.

Not neccesarily. SUDS legislation applies to the whole make up of the driveway from the sub base to the type of block used.

I would check with your local authority as some will insist on a new driveway being SUDS compliant.

We don't use KD sand anymore for brushing in. It's 1-4mm Joint Filling Aggregate which is a crushed granite and is SUDS compliant.

You need 50mm of bedding layer which historically was Sharp Sand but now people are using 2-6mm Clean Stone for SUDS compliance

That looks ridiculous. Don't pay

Gravel Grids will probably be the cheapest option. Whichever option you choose it will usually require a sub base of Type 3 followed by 4/20mm or 2/6mm Clean Stone to comply with SUDS regulations. If you go down the block route the block manufacturer will advise on a spec.

Yes it will but at least you will be able to walk on the stones rather than in a puddle

Soakaways don't work particularly well in clay. A simple trench backfilled with gravel will create a temporary store of water which will dissipate, albeit very slowly.