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OK, if you must, I will let you :wink:

As the door interlock has clearly failed you might as well destroy it to get the door open. You should be able to prise off the square section that has the wires going to it and the door should then open.

Yes, there is a pair of stats mounted on the back near the heater (part No. 1701583). You need to remove the outer rear panel to get at them and you can check them by linking the 2 wires that go to the device with a short piece of wire and briefly running the machine to see if the heater heats...

Try poking screwed up tissue or kitchen roll between the seal and the concrete ring to wedge the first section of seal in place before attempting to ease the next bit on. You can use the same technique to secure part of the retaining spring when fitting that.

If the drum bearings have not been renewed yet they are due to fail any day now....

There may be a partial blockage in the pump plumbing causing the programme to time out on the draining part of the rinse. If there is a filter fitted you need to check that first.

What I resent is the assumption that we are all subject to part P and therefore treated as criminals for doing wiring work. At the moment this section of the building regs does not apply in Scotland so I will continue to supplement my appliance repair business with small domestic wiring jobs. If...

Perhaps the solenoid coil has burnt out on the hot water inlet valve.

Start by taking the back off to see if the belt has come off.

Yes I did meen the ones on the metal ducting. When doing resistance readings you should unplug the machine as you might damage your meter (or worse) if you try to take readings off live circuits. In addition to the thermal fuses there will be a control thermostat which can be tested the same...

On the WM61 the door switch has probably failed but there may also be a burnt out copper strip on the timer/module circuit board.

It gets confusing trying to work out who makes which appliances these days but at one time Hotpoint dishwashers were actually made by Bosch. Zanussi were always a good make but there is no guarantee that one with a Zanussi badge came out of the Zanussi factory. I repaired a Tricity Bendix tumble...

There is one or more thermal fuse fitted to these machines. This is a small black cube with 2 spade terminals. If you have a multimeter you can take one of the wires off this device and check if it is open circuit using a resistance reading.

It is probably: Red: Supply In Yellow: Load Blue: Neutral but you can check in the consumer unit that the red goes to an MCB and the yellow goes to a floating terminal block or similar to the lights cable. There should be an isolating switch between the consumer unit and the sensor so if...

I would suggest you put this question/comment on the UK Whitegoods forum as they have at least one Bosch engineer on there. Sometimes manufacturers have to honour warranty claims when they could strictly speaking blame the installation as they need to maintain good public relations...

Also check the hose that goes to that bottle as it may have a hole in it.

There may be a bad connection in the bathroom light fitting or ceiling rose. You may find that that the bathroom is the second room on the circuit and that the loop wire taking the permenant live to the next room has burnt out.

You can use thicker cable than the 1mm minimum without any problems. Many electricians use 1.5mm for all lighting work but 1mm would still meet the regs in most domestic lighting circuits.

Run the machine on spin with the lid off. If there are lots of blue sparks at maximum spin speed then you have a duff armature. A few small sparks are OK but if it lights up the room you need to get it sorted before more damage occurs to the electronics etc.

Many thanks. The tails are at least 25mm.