Is this post connected to the linked one above?
If the lodger has literally climbed through a window onto the flat roof, or up some stairs/ladders onto it and fell down....then surely that is their own fault? I'd ask to speak to somebody else at the insurance company, or change insurers...
Noticed something called 'Chinese Pine Plywood CE+2' being listed for sale locally, but can't find a lot of information on it. Seems to be cheaper than WBP, but I haven't a clue if it's in any way comparable for use as flooring in a kitchen. Anyone came across this stuff?
Hi folks, drawing a bit of a blank here, wonder if anyone can help.
Can you get interior moulded panel doors in less than 610mm wide? It's for an area I've partitioned off into a long cupboard. Was hoping to use a 610mm door, but it's a bit on the tight side and means I'd have to chop up...
Yeah Building Notice is already in (and has been for over a year lol), it's just one of the things I was going to contract out, but I'm starting to get the confidence so fancy having a go meself. :)
Is there any chance of thee timber rotting due to moisture from the concrete, or is the moisture so small that it wouldn't cause a problem?
Not hijacking the thread, just interested meself, as I've a similar issue in our kitchen. :)
Hi folks,
I've been practicing me bending and soldering skills on bits of scrap pipe, and I'm feeling confident I can successfully connect up a toilet, basin, and shower to a new downstairs cloakroom/shower room (inclusion of shower depends on whether I can wedge one in, as it will be tight)...
It looks as though the grey pipe is a full moulded piece, including the section with the cap. I cant see any gaps. It appears to be pushed tight into the red piece.
To me it looks like to get any sort of downward slope, however slight, the pipe from the toilet entering the main waste would...
First of all, apologies for the awful picture quality, it's a low light shot photoshopped so you can see anything at all lol.
This is a shot of our waste pipe, directly upstairs is the bathroom, to the left of this is a downstairs cloakroom I've been working on.
The cloakroom toilet...
Some of the studs must have a slight bow/twist in them as when screwed down tight, there's 'steps' of 2-3mm here and there which probably wouldn't be as much of a problem if I'd used whole boards.
Also I've got the tapered bit to build up slightly.
So yes I'd need to build up thickness a...
Hmmmm, this post would seem to say bonding plaster can be used on plasterboard....
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=218070
Or, could I just fill any deep inperfections with normal household filler and plaster over that?
Reading through a few posts which I didn't spot while searching earlier, a popular method seems to be a couple of coats of bonding plaster followed by finishing plaster....might this be the answer? :)
Hi folks
Total newbie to plastering here, hoping to give it a go soon, I'm after some tips.
I bought some tapered edge plasterboard for a stud wall upstairs with the hope of getting away with just taping the joins. Then I realised that I couldn't get the boards upstairs in one piece due...
Hi folks, need to run some copper pipes through a section of stud wall, which has this insulation (for sound deadening I believe):-
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161236
Is there any reason why the copper pipes and insulation cant live happily together, or should the pipes be shielded from...
Conservatories separated from the main house via an external grade door are exempt from building regulations, once you take that door away the structure becomes subject to building regulations (and the fees and inspections).
Not sure about that advice about a glass roof though, I thought the...