Search results

Ok, finally got around to testing and the switch which checks out okay. Boiler didn't make the fault again all weekend, but decided to this evening. Normally when I turn the tap on, there are actually two clicks one after the other. The first is the microswitch being depressed, then a relay...

Thanks mate, will get the multimeter out tomorrow.

Yes, CH seems to work everytime (as far as I can tell anyway - problem only started this morning) I haven't tested contact resistance of microswitch. What values should I be looking for? I'll have a propper look in the morning. Cheers.

Hello all, The hot water on my Icon 23T has developed a fault overnight. This morning I turned on the shower as usual to find it was cold, so I went downstairs to investigate the fault further. Boiler readings were fine and pressure was normal. I tested the boiler by turning the hot water...

Yep, exactly right. My setup was exactly the same - it had 240v across the thermostat terminals, but all the receiver does is open and close that circuit anyway. The whole point in the receiver having a relay is so that it won't interfer with any of the workings of the receiver itself. That's...

I've only ever changed the speed during balancing the system. Once it's set right, it stays that way for good. I've never had to change it at different times of year..? :?

You could just buy a digital room thermometer and work out what temperature the numbers give you. I doubt the stats with the temperature on are that accurate.

X100

Whoo!

Thanks for the help, guys. Sounds like I should be okay. Although that all may change when installing the gas fire. I've got a feeling that without him even testing the pressure, the RGI would want to change the lot to 22mm.

After reading a recent thread about undersized gas pipework and the dangers of it, I decided to inspect my system - which was installed by the previous owner of my house about 3 years ago (who was an RGI, but still a bit of a cowboy.) First thing I noticed was all the gas piping is in 15mm...

There's no real way of telling without actually seeing your chimney. I would suggest that the neccessary repairs are made to the chimney to ensure it is safe, then the whole flue needs relining, with a suitable cowel on top. I think the best thing for you to do is call in your local chimney...

I'd say the best answer to this would be a programmer with a setback anticipator (or optimised start.) That way, you can have your heating COMPLETELY off during the day if your house is unoccupied (apart from maybe the cat). The optimiser will still get your comfort level for when you return...

If it makes you feel any better, I've heard of this happen quite a few times!

Lol yeah I wouldn't be suprised!

I used a tube with a funnel on the end. The end that went into the rad, I sealed with a bit of duct tape while I filled it to stop it pouring out. Forget all these injection kits, you don't need them. Fleabay is good for cheap inhibitor. I got X100 for £5.

Hi mate, just fitted a wireless programmable stat to my Icon T boiler. Bit of a pain to do at first, as the PCB doesn't have a terminal strip, but guys on here helped me determine which were the correct wires to tap into. 15 mins of cutting and re-wiring and works a treat now!

Just a note, I recognise that boiler as an Icon T. These boilers were generally available from builders merchants, which may explain why it is so badly installed :-(

No, won't harm the boiler, just your patience. When you check the pin, check it moves properly and fully depresses the microswitch. If it's doing that, then definately faulty microswitch.

Could be a faulty microswitch on the diverter.