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Before you do anything, get a professional chimney sweep in. He will inspect your chimney, smoke test it and sweep the whole thing. Follow his advice on whether you should line it or not. My house was built in 1927 and the chimneys didn't need lining, but of course, that was after extensive...

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2002.pdf

If there's a small white box near the boiler, there should be an override button on it which you can press to activate the relay. Try pushing that and that may give you heat temporarily.

If it never used to do it, all I can guess is that the tap which you have replaced isn't quite fit correctly and is sucking in air as you draw water from it. Seriously though, I wouldn't worry about it. Both my old flat and my current house do it all the time. Apparently, it's more common in...

It will be loads of fine air bubbles. Mine does it too, mainly with the hot water. Looks weird but I've never been bothered by it. As you say, it clears after a few seconds.

I'll leave it over weekend then and see if it improves. There is just one short radiator in the hallway, which heats the small area, plus quite a small kitchen. There is another radiator on the landing upstairs. Thinking about it again, I doubt the hall is much colder. When the heating turns...

Well, it's programmed for 20C @ 11am for Saturdays and it came on bang on 9am this morning. Looks like a reset doesn't do anything. I noticed that the "factory reset" option in the parameters menu (which is what I used) only resets any settings you have made. It leaves the programme and I...

Not sure what time it came on this morning, I slept right through to the alarm clock! Will test it over weekend and let you know if the reset solved it.

I did hear stories of the CM927 predecessor (CM67) having an even worse optimisation function - sometimes making the heating come on up to 4hrs before the set time. So maybe Honeywell got rid of the crazy fuzzy learning function for good reason, as I guess it didn't work. Having said that...

I thought if you remove the batteries, it would reset everything except the user program. A factory reset would wipe the whole thing, including all the installer parameters. If it's always recalculating, it should eventually tune itself to it's environment. I'll try resetting it anyway...

Yeah it's HEATAS regs that you want to follow. Also, read Document J from the building regs. We have a copy of it at work, think it's pages 35 onwards for the installation of soild fuel fired systems. It will outline all the minimum dimensions from combustible materials, clearances...

I was thinking about resetting it to let it re-learn, but didn't want to have to re-programme it again! (I'm a lazy ar5e). I wonder if removing the batteries would do it? Going off your second post, it sounds like the stat doesn't actually learn, but bases it on the previous day's accuracy...

Thermostat is located in the hallway, opposite a radiator and as far away as possible from it. The radiator seems to heat the hall at almost the same rate at which it heats the other rooms. So when my thermometer in the living room reads ~21C, the stat just lags behind slightly at say 20.5C. It...

Could you use some of that solution that scuba divers use on their goggles to stop condensation forming and misting over? Mind you, when I went scuba diving, I used good old spit.

Thanks for your reply. My overnight temperature is set at 10C. It's definately is not going under this and coming on. It comes on exactly 2hs before the programmed temperature, but only takes 45 minutes to get it to the programmed temperature. I've heared that the CM927 actually learns the...

Does anyone have one of these units? I've had mine for about 2 weeks now and it works great, except I've noticed the optimised start feature often causes the heating to come on very early. In the manual, it states it will adjust this accordingly, dependent on the current temperature in the room...

I think the one I have has adjustable emissivity, but never really played about with it. I bought it a while back to use for tuning those little 2-stroke engines, but seems to work well on most things. I can get some scary readings when I point it at my log stove!

Did a bit of messing around today. As you say Chris, I noticed how the IR thermometers don't work on shiny metal! Won't work on the copper flow and return pipes from the boiler, but work fine on the rads and PVC pipes. Anyway, I'm getting 83C flow temp at the boiler and 80C at the inlets to...

I have an Icon boiler and it is by no means the best around, infact I've read many bad reviews of Icon. However, after a comment from a boiler engineer, apparently you often find 'cheaper' rebaged models are made from similar components found in more mainstream systems. I therefore would be...

Yeah, what I mean is a typical safe maximum. Obviously, 100C is way too hot which would result in scalding and damage to PVC pipes etc. I want to know how hot the rad should get before it is deemed "too hot". Cheers