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I've balanced my CH system using one of those IR thermometers, resulting in all of my rads heating up together quite nicely. I've adjusted the valves down to the settings I require, but one or two of the radiators I need on full setting. Typically speaking, what would be the maximum...

I've just installed a Honeywell CM927 (wireless) and it is superb. It rates very highly with other too, as do many of the current Honeywell products. They're not cheap though, although eBay may come to the rescue. Over £100 in the shops for mine, £68 off eBay.

One last thing, I noticed this on the wiring diagram (circled) Notice how ignition control unit should have 3 connections - Ignition Electrode, Flame Sensor and EARTH. So I bet the control unit was getting an earth via the PCB. What I should have done was connect up an earth to the free...

Managed to get it running this afternoon. Wired it in using a length of 4-core flex - tapping off the boiler's main supply and connecting the the two switched terminals between the black wire with blue plug on. Working like a treat now. Thanks for all the input guys. Oh and Chris, that...

Okay, getting a little closer now. Some more pictures here: These are the two cores of the white cable that connect into the boiler PCB. As you can see, both have terminal blocks on them. If I disconnect the blue connector on the left, the boiler clicks off, as I guess it breaks the timeclock...

The wires inside the white flex are both black. So from your wiring diagram, the T.A terminal should be bridged at the moment then and I need to run a separate cable to use these two terminals?

Yeah good point, could be just a parking place for the connectors. There are two connection points on the ignition module labelled "spark". It will only ignite the boiler when the white cable is plugged into the bottom one. If you look at the first picture, you can see the two connectors on the...

Just to add, when the boiler is on, that cable is actually live with 240v. Weird as the cores are very small and the other end into the spark unit just has a blanked off spade connector with black sheathing over it.

Okay, here are some pictures: This one shows the white cable coming out of the control unit. The red ring shows how it connects for some reason into the ignition module. Notice how excessively long the cable is, suggesting it was not meant to plug in there (there's about another meter length...

Boiler is badged up as an Icon, but made by Hermann. The white cable seems to match the description in the boiler's handbook, but it completely throws me as to why it's connected to the ignition module. It's obviously doing something, as the burners get no spark if you unplug it. Doesn't...

I'm trying to connect my new thermostat to my Icon 23T boiler. Thermostat is of volt-free type and the boiler MIs say there should be a "white external controls cable" that is bridged for connecting a thermostat. All makes sense. I've opened the control panel to expose the PCB and there is a...

Good stuff. I think I'll go with splitting the supply cable and linking them in the receiver unit. Means I don't have to buy anything then! Thanks for all your help mate. Cheers.

Not sure what you mean by your first comment? Do you mean run the supply to the receiver box first, then spur from there to the boiler? Is you second idea similar to my first option, except I wouldn't cut the supply to the boiler, just remove it and split inside the surface box? Cheers.

Yeah, that was my initial thought when I bought the thermostat, but then I was having a look at it this evening and the boiler PCB is housed in a control unit casing, where all the supply connector blocks would be, but there are no spare cut-outs or grommets to run another flex, unfortunately...

Hi everyone. I'm about to install a Wireless RF Thermostat to my combi boiler. The receiver unit which does all the switching requires a permanent mains supply. It will not actually switch the live pole - the switching circuit is completely voltless, but the relay unit needs a 240v supply and...

Have you started wiring it in yet? I've just had mine come through the post now sat on my desk. I'll give it a go at wiring it up tonight. My boiler is an Icon 23T. Wiring schmatic is not the best!

You would use four-core to keep the installation looking neater, as it combines it into one cable. My boiler already has a two core cable coiled up and bridged which is for the thermostat switch, so I'll be using this, plus an exta length of T&E for the supply to the relay. Yep, live and...

I'm about to wire in my CMT927 and from quickly browsing the instructions, I'd say what you are saying is correct. Essentially, you are tapping a 230v supply for the relay in the receiver unit off the boiler, so simply a live and neutral from the boiler's supply block is fine (so it's after...

Most networking wireless equipment around the house uses 2.4GHZ frequency, so I can't see it interfering with a wireless room stat, which normally operate around the 900MHZ range. I've heard some brands of stats will cause issues with 70cm radio, so if you're into amature radio... :roll:

Have you checked fleabay?