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its asif the overflow holes in the grating are not matching up with the ones in the basin but how do i fix that??

I just fitted a basin and cannot get it to hold water, i silliconed the grating and left it for 24 hrs as i always do, it was sealed, when i filled the basin the water held but when i pull the plug the water pours out from underneath inbetween the plastic nut and the underside of the basin, help...

i understand your point, i like to think i am good at my job and i know quite alot, but i am always willing to learn and always am learning more and more, but when i give someone advice, i am saying what i would do, that doesnt mean what u would do is wrong, theres many ways to string a cat y,know

the simpelest thing to do is fit an electric shower, thats fed from mains, it wont blast u away but its more than adequate for a good shower

my bebo is jordant447, add me if u want

its proper practice to give a hot and cold flush, and im assuming the rot is due to a chemical of some sort which has been left in and shouldnt have, the man said himself the water is clean, im not trying to argue or disagree with u bengasman just givimg my opinion

but the system is clean, it does not need any flushing chemicals

y dnt u get the basin exchanged because if u rasp it then it doesnt fit ul be lucky to get a refund

move the hot water cylinder downstairs, fit an electric shower, fit shower pump, take yer pick

the basin makers should either have 1 for it or know where to get one

use sentinel, it is best, give the system a cold and hot flush and put in sentinel x100 inhibiter and leave it in, thats what ad do anyway, and as rico said change the rad

if they supply materials ad say 40 pound is reasonable, but u could charge a bit more and it would stil be ok, really depends where they want it and where u have to make the connection, if its just straight out then 40 but if u have to go halfway through the house then more, as for the stopcock...

a know what u mean, least your busy though

it is legal, thats all i have to say bout it :)

a hope your charging the customer well for doing that

but thats alot going on under the sink, like a said before, u want them outside, i would personally never have a prv inside, but if i had to i would run the condensate inside

the boiler is in the kitchen so am assuming its on a wall

i understand why u can discharge to waste via tundish but surely out the wall is best method

i know, i dont mean that, i mean the final discharge , the tundish is only to provide an air break is it not ?

but the final discharge point must be visable