Search results

I apologise for the rather lengthy reply since initial posting, but just wanted to say thank you @Charlie George for the input here! I did end up getting the Tudor facing, and whilst they are not an absolutely perfect match, no doubt due to batches and different time periods, they are very very...

My understanding is that the silicon won’t stick to wet soapy surfaces. So whilst it makes tooling easier, the longer term bond is compromised? As I say, purely based on what I’ve read and seen elsewhere, but I’ve since switched to just using a wet tool if need be (rather than spraying the...

Good afternoon all. We have recently moved in to a 1950s house in SE London and have two upcoming jobs. 1. Boiler has just packed up so replacing this which will also mean replacing the flue 2. There is already a reasonable sized hole in the same wall which I would love to make good For this...

I am not a professional decorator - keen DIYer and a bit of a perfectionist (not always ideal at times!), so won’t opine on your direct question. That being said I wouldn’t be happy with some of the examples you’ve highlighted here if I had done this - I’d be immediately looking to correct the...

Much more expensive, but I’ve ended up using this type of system for growing climbers up our house now. Looks nice on Day 1 and importantly isn’t rotting over time! https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/steel-wire-rope-swr/steel-wire-rope-trellis-systems/

Depending on what finish you would ideally want (and your abilities!), it *may* be worth considering the Toupret Skimcoat Exterior? I’ve recently corrected some Reasonably poor original paint and render jobs with this, and ended up with a lovely smooth and contemporary finish (finished with...

I would +1 for a plunge saw, rather than a simple circular saw. Since I bought my (DIY focussed) Parkside plunge saw 3 years ago, I have not *once* used my circular saw - in fact, I gave it away 6 months ago as it was gathering dust. As others with far more experience have already mentioned...

Preservative following by decking oil.

Ultimately I would say it will come down to the quality of the timber in the first place. Given we're talking 12.5mm thickness, my initial sense is there could well be a decent amount of expansion and contraction to factor in. You can help yourself out by treating the wood appropriately (I...

So as a bit of background, I often like to over-engineer anything that I've put my mind to building, so similarly when building my shed, went with a breathable membrane and over-specced the timber several times over). I'd always go for treated timber - it's not a huge amount more, and it just...

Appreciate that this is a fairly old thread resurrection, but the question seemed to fit best here. I'm using a Wagner W690 HVLP system with Dulux Trade Supermatt thinned for a mist coat. The issue I have is that the paint seems to be coming through as more of a spatter (although dries flat)...

Hi all - and firstly apologies if this is in the wrong place but hopefully addresses my question! We've recently had a loft conversion done, and as part of this, have put aside a section of the eaves for storage. The builders have plasterboarded out most of the eaves area, but have left the...

Firstly thank you for the quick reply 23vc! Whilst I would agree that overall, he's actually done a pretty decent job, it's those two points which are sticking out to me like sore thumbs right now. I think if I can try and tidy up the plaster/wood transition on the newel post, I'd be happy -...

Good evening all, We are currently in the process of having a loft extension. First the good news - the plastering in the actual loft space and new stairway seems to have been done quite well - I have no complaints, and am genuinely quite looking forward to giving it a mist coat and...

I've had good results with Barretine's Premier Wood Preservative (which comes in clear - it really has a *very* slightly reddish hue to it), followed by their Decking Oil (typically doing a few coats of the preservative, followed by the oil). What I like is that they are all solvent based, and...

I'm sorry to hear of the issues Mugabes - re-affirms my own decision to go ahead and build my own last summer! That being said, I'm curious as to what is causing the issues. It sounds as though it may just be that the roof overhang is unacceptable - just for my own interest, do you have any...

Thank you very much Notch. I do have some Flashband and also DPC but am not really sure whether either is required - or even appropriate in these circumstances. I guess my thoughts are that the wood is going to get wet regardless being exposed to the elements - I just want to make sure that I'm...

Hey all! I'm *hoping* to potentially get started on this either tomorrow or Friday - using threaded rods still seems to be the best way forward unless anyone has any concerns. It just then comes down to whether I'm likely to get any damp issues with having the fence post directly bolted to the...

The problem can sometimes be that (if like our house), the back door is on the rear of the house, having the decking running perpendicular to the house can lead to some very easy slips when the decking is wet, so this could well be a reason for laying this way. That being said, the picture in...

Another option would be to use the cold felt adhesive, but also use thin timber strips over the top, held down with clout nails. Truthfully, I'm pretty surprised that even the smallest clout nails are penetrating through. A couple of mm of felt, suggests that's a *very* thin timber roof?