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No, it's not unusual for it to have been piped up that way. It's useful. In the simplest terms, balancing means ensuring the flow reaches the radiators on the furthest branches/points of the central heating circuit. As it's the only radiator on the circuit, the only other factor to consider is...

Is your hot water on constant then? It may have been plumbed in to the hot water circuit so that you can have dry towels all year 'round. Turn the hot water off for a few hours, turn it back on and then do as suggested above.

With reference to the red gate valve heads in your most recent photo, from left to right: Fully open Fully closed Fully open And set the timer so that the hot water comes on immediately before or immediately after the central heating comes on (logic being that water will take the easier route...

Speed and ease of installation + the knowledge that they won't be the one with the problem. And they're likely to be the kind of person who couldn't make a leak-free compression joint.

If that's Tectite Sprint (which it looks like it is), it's non-demountable. The release tool you've linked to is for Tectite Classic. Plus that position wouldn't allow you to get any tool in anyway, I don't think. Cutting (carefully) time!

In which case the boiler is likely to be functioning correctly. As stated above, the flow rate is normally quoted at a 35°c rise. At these times of year, the incoming water from the mains is potentially close to 5°c, giving you your 40°c. The only way to raise this is to slow down the flow rate...

I think you'll find he was joking. Your new guy clearly didn't have a pipe bender then?...

The 'HC' option changes whether B becomes live when under or over the set point, so no, it's not wrong.

Got it! Slow, but I got there... Apologies!

But in that scenario there's only one boiler, and there's no dispute that it can be used in those circumstances. It's the second boiler which is the question here, and I can't see how it could be done using standard Hive kit.

I get that, but how would you specify boiler A to fire with a call for heat from zones 1, 2 and 3 and boiler B to fire with a call for heat from zones 4 and 5?

Surely this can't work as the Hive has no way of switching the boilers independently of each other? It just outputs 240v down a single wire when heat is called for.

To be fair, they did say "for aesthetic reasons" so the visual effect was clearly important! Conex make one, the 401/0. Downside: https://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/conex-p520137-44/ £55.30 +VAT Why you'd even pay a sixth of that for a single unit, I don't know. Time to re-think!

The dryer I have has a drain hose with an OD of about 10mm. It would fit in the same standpipe as the washing machine. Is that an option?

Unscrew the screw, pull the plastic cover off, get an adjustable wrench and turn the spindle in clockwise until it stops turning.

Be ready with a bucket as well, because even though the taps will have stopped running, there will be a fair amount of residual water in the pipework.

Try undoing all of the pipework and twisting the white plastic base whilst holding the metal strainer in place?

What was it?...

Do you have a pressure reducing valve on your rising main? Sometimes these have a pre-filter which gets clogged with silt/sediment/rust and this will limit the flow through it.

Sounds very likely, yes.