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It won't help with the valve as such, it'll help with the problem of not being able to disassemble the pipework to give you the access required to re-join the pipes. It's an alternative to the deep socket valve. The deep socket allows you to take up some of the pipe in the valve body, the slip...

It's a joining piece that joints two pieces of pipe, but unlike regular couplers it doesn't have a raised stop in the middle, so it can slide all the way over the pipe and out of the way. Handy when there's no room/movement to get the pipe into a regular coupler.

Two slip couplers ought to do it, no?

Thanks Simon.

Because everything else is black and the flue is currently white. Looks a bit odd. Slightly OCD, perhaps.

Is there a reason I shouldn't paint the outside of a standard Vaillant concentric flue black? By my logic the inner plastic pipe is the part that bears the brunt of the heat, so it shouldn't cause any problems if I paint it. Or have I missed something and it'll be a monumentally bad idea?

The PTFE goes around the olive, not the thread. It's the olive that does the sealing. The threads just allow the nut to be turned, in turn transferring the force onto the olive, deforming it and making the seal against the body of the fitting.

I thought the same when I installed a 25mm version. The reality is that it's absolutely fine - I seem to remember it was passing around 35lpm off a 3/4" galvanized iron main (open end), so you'll be fine with a 32mm stopcock.

Thanks gents. I've changed D0 to 15kW and it's now performing as I expected - full tilt until the set flow temperature is achieved and then modulating down to hold it at that temperature. Bunnyman, I did check the live status before posting and there was nothing untoward there - just whatever...

Thanks, I had read about changing D0 when Googling what might be causing this, but only in the context of downrating an oversized boiler. I'll give it a go and see if it improves anything.

I have a recently installed Vaillant 615 Ecotec Plus boiler and a 170L Heatrae Sadia / Santon Premier Plus indirect cylinder. It's wired up to a standard S Plan system - no weather compensation. The boiler was specced having done a whole house heatloss calculation and is slightly smaller than...

Haha! And therein lies the problem!...

Fair comment Dan, although the electrician was berating the installers' manual for being very vague! And Storms, I've eliminated that as the source of the problem. It was indeed the 24v jumper as SGM suggested. Thanks all.

Thank you. I'll ask them to check that. I checked at the wiring centre, not within the boiler as I'd been told which colour wire went where on the boiler.

Hoping someone can help please? We've just had a Vaillant Ecotec Plus 615 installed and the electrician and installer are slightly flummoxed. It is a Honeywell S-plan system. There is no call for heat (0V to the 'RT' terminal) but the boiler is maintaining the flow at 75c (through the internal...

Because the male connection is where your appliance hose screws on, hence the lever controls the appliance only. In your case, one of the remaining compression joints takes the incoming cold supply and the other takes a tap tail adaptor and feeds your kithcen tap.

Is it a Bosch? Mine has the same. It's shaped so that it will wedge tightly in the top of a 40mm standpipe and not slip out. Mine's been like yours is for years now and it's fine.

I used Duraflue. Would recommend!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151101051663&alt=web Yours appears to be missing the blue plug inside which seals it off.

Yes. Condensate is acidic and over time it would damage/discolour the sink (depending on what material it is made from). You also wouldn't want it dripping in the sink when you were using it. Connecting it to the sink waste wouldn't be a problem - you'll just have to go through the worktop.