Search results

Stat is a safety device, if the boiler doesn't know the house is up to temp, it'll run until the programmer tells it to stop TRV's don't stop the boiler, once your house is up to temp you want the boiler off to save money more than anything

D2

That's where I was heading :roll:

Did you depressurise the CH system before opening the drain valve? ...1 to 1.2bar system pressure would normally shift a sticky washer ~ that's 10 to 12m head of water

Is your boiler in the garage?

Unless you hold a current G3 certificate, you shouldn't be doing this work!

...installed by a G3 qualified Engineer (it's a legal requirement)

Should be ok if it's at the correct depth (0.75 - 1.35m)

Plastic isn't must protection against a hammered nail...I've seen it done too many times :cry:

20°C is cold main temp, so ~ sounds like it's either not connected to the electric supply, or the fused spur isn't switched on, or try checking the consumer unit, maybe the Plumber isolated the old one but forgot to turn the power back on!

Megaflo is an unvented cylinder not a boiler, and if your's does need working on you'll need a G3 qualified Engineer to do the work

You can download a good heat loss calculator from kermi, I used it for my training portfolio...HERE

1. your immersion cuts off because it has a thermostat, you can change the temp on the head but isolate it from the electric supply 1st 2. IF the you wouldn't get any water out of the hot taps 3. IF the cylinder isn't filling fully, the feed from the CWST is either partially blocked or the...

Pressure vessel is either down on pressure or knackered, open the pressure relief valve so your pressure gauge reads zero, then test the pressure vessel with a tyre pressure gauge, it should be about 1.5bar - top it up with a foot pump, then repressurise the system to 1.2bar ...if it does it...

Is the power on at the fused spur? (i.e. is the red light on)

Getting back to subject, you need to pass your ACS which enables you to do your Gas Regs which enables you to register with GSR :wink:

I live in a factual world, where facts are facts and the laws of physics rule

ID, AR, or NCS?

There's not much can go wrong with a sani: 1. If it hums it's the capacitor needing replacing 2. If it won't stop, the microswitch needs replacing There are other less frequent problems ...but you've had yours apart so it could be there's something under the rubber diaphragm pushing on...

Plastering pipework into walls is a callout waiting to happen, unless you protect them like electrical cabling