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Thanks for all the replies. The boiler was chosen with the future in mind. We will add another bedroom and ground floor room in the next few years, in addition to the back half of the garage. That and the fact we have two bathrooms meant that the Worcester calculator recommended this boiler...

I've done some research on this previously. The only similar thing that exists is for a tumble drier, and this involves adding ice blocks to condense the moist air every time its used. Sounds like a builder telling porkies, I would get it remedied asap.

I've had a feeling for a while that our brand new Greenstar 38CDi is using more gas than it should. A brief overview we live in a 3 bed semi, roof insulated to 150mm and no wall cavities. Each room has one single panelled radiator (older system) with zoned Evohome TRVs. In simple terms...

We are converting our garage and have had different advice regarding building control requirements. The garage is double length and attached the the house, on the side of a semi, however there is no direct access from the habitable part of the house to the garage. Access is via an external...

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Thanks, I've had a look at the link and can't see any of the identifying marks on ours. I've attached a picture. I presume they are just cheap building blocks but I do really need to try and get a u-value to minimise the amount of insulation required. I am hoping as the seem to have a fair...

I am trying to identify what type of concrete building block was used in the construction of our garage, so I can then work out their u-value for a future conversion of the rear half of the space. I've googled but not found a resource that I can use to identify them. Does anyone know where...

Thank you Plumber90 for at least being the one to make a constructive reply, there's nothing worse than a forum troll. I'll get him back in to replace the seal as he was paid to sort the leak problem and it appears it hasn't gone away.

Already have, he's been in, cleared the condensate trap & checked the flue but also told me to replace the seal at some stage soon. He's WB approved and in his words replacing the seal is an easy job, which it is.

I have a 10 year old Greenstar 27HE which has condensation forming on the inside of the outer casing in the area of the main chamber. The seal is quite old but I imagine it would work better if there was a better seal to the outer casing. The condensation drips down past the seal and on to the...

Building control reply was simple. None of the attic conversions signed off on this building type required additional strengthening. It's fine as it is and can support plasterboard insulation and skim. However he's also said that using the lower vertical struts to bind the rafters to the...

I'm using an approved rep who has visited a few times during the build and he's never asked. I have just left a message with him to discuss this specifically of the back of your post, thanks.

Yes to Building regs No have not removed any structure oh Except the ceiling brace which was not connected to the roof structure and I have put in new joists.

I was thinking more of putting a smaller purlin about a meter down the slope bracing the rafters with the new floor. This enables the space immediately under the existing purlin to be used for flexible storage. Shoule I be using joist hangers to fix the additional purling to the brickwork...

New floor joists are wood, C24 6x3 in line with Trada tables. Thanks. I want the space to be open so I will brace slightly below the purlins. I have some 3x2 C16 which should add some support.

I am about to complete the last stages of our attic conversion which involves mounting 6x3 sheets of 9.5mm tapered drywall on to the rafters. I just want to check that the purlins are up to the job of taking the load. They are 6.5 x 3 inch and span the entire attic space 3.5m. The house is...