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I'm happy to leave everything except the third switch, to be honest. I just need it to be either out of the way or gone completely, because I need to get a door on my kitchen. All the heat from the fires escapes into it and it's basically a giant heat sink and makes the rest of the house cold...

Hi Sunray, I only have that shot I'm afraid, as I've closed it all back up now. The twi cables enter the backbox from directly above. To be honest, I'm happy with any setup that allows me to just not have to worry about drilling into the wall when I attach the door lining. I want to completely...

Damn, I knew it wouldn't be simple. So frustrating. In which case, how feasible is it to just chase the cable out the wall and re-route the chased ables into a new chase so that I can just put the doorframe in place? Obviously the zone would change slightly, but I presume I can just channel...

Sorry, I should say, the second two switches are two gang that control different lights elsewhere in the house, but the one I want to remove is only 1-gang

This is the wiring for the one I want to remove: This is the second light switch on the same floor: And this is the third light switch on the second floor: They all turn off the lights on the first and second floor hallways at the same time with no independent control of either floor

Make one inoperable and something I can just plaster straight over. I have to put a door lining where the switch is, so it's not possible to blank it off. I'm hoping I can just remove the wire between it and whatever switch it's connected to and just terminate either end.

I'm looking to remove one of the switches from a three way light circuit. Any advice would be appreciated. I can test lines, work safely, etc, I understand basic electrics, but three way switches, or even two way switches are not something I'm entirely confident with. Am going to be doing...

Alastairreid Cheers mate, that worked a treat!

Alastair, thanks so much, that's perfect. I just ordered some. Wild price variations across websites, took me about 30 miins to find a place that sold it for a reasonable rate. Much appreciated mate, I think this'll do the job perfectly

The repair patches don't work for my use-case, as I need to line the inside of a hole, so anything I do with patches wiooll create extra possibilities for continued ingress of water. What I really need is something I can just paint on that will fill the existing damage. Yeah, no way I'm...

Hi Robin, That's the plan. I want to redo the entire roof in the summer, including ripping the entire thing off and rebuilding from scratch, so this is more of a temporary spot fix to get me through winter. It's not in bad condition in general, but it's certainly nearing the end of its life. I...

But it can do harm, because it's bitumen-based, which will attack the rubber because of the solvents. I appreciate the help, but I can speculate on what will work myself; I'm still just looking for specific advice from someone who knows the best method of first identifying what my roof...

Nuralite seems to be very specific to New Zealand, and everything I'm reading about it suggests it's very gritty, course, and quite rigid, whereas this is rubbery, elastic, and quite smooth.

That's why I'm here mate, I don't know what will work! Is that a known method for fixing broken EPDM? I just need a direction to go in as I'm completely clueless about this haha.

Thanks Harry, I just did that with a bit of tubing and got a little out. Also tested the pipe with a hose and left it running just beyond where it joins to the rubber, and no leaks of any kind visible. It does appear to be right at the point of the two pictures posted. If anyone has any ideas...

Because it's far less likely to have happened than it being the rubber, which has clearly deteriorated to the point where it's peeling off and rotted away. The plastic is completely fine

Am I looking for something like this: https://www.permaroofstore.co.uk/epdm-drain-outlet-100mm.html

Oh wow yes, it may be that, thank you! Yes, definitely not blocked as far as I can tell, as it's still draining pretty well, and the site of the leak is when looking through the hole I've cut in the ceiling is directly below the hole

Hi everyone, We've got an old kitchen extension that was done in the 80s. Absolutely no insulation in it, and the central roof lantern has been leaking for a while. I've inspected the roof, and found that the drain off point is in the middle of the roof, right by the corner of the lantern, and...

Thank you mate, much appreciated - Merry christmas!