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Yes. If that's what the manufacturer recommends, you, generally, need a good reason for not doing so. You can't say much fairer than this. If you really don't want the pull switch, then just use the switched FCU. Remember, this FCU does not only provide the switching (as your isolator does)...

This is H05VV-F flex. http://elandcables-specs.co.uk:8080/eland/details?CableTypeID=106 used between the Connection Unit and the cooker itself as opposed to that from the CU to the Cooker Unit. I'm not sure if it comes in a size above 4sq mm, which suggests your cooker should be on a 32A MCB...

If it's 2.5mm T+E as a radial, max MCB rating should be 20Amps.

It is allowed to do so when installing radial ccts, AFAIK, as all you are effectively doing is creating a star pattern radial. Is this what the previous spark has done here? Oh, and to edit, yes I have had this problem with the circlips, which normally go missing when the lamp is changed and...

Yes you can, but you must notify them in advance.

I appreciate what JohnD is saying, but think it's what we used to call a "Leafy Lane". Nice to walk down but not actually dealing with the point in question. The point here is that you are not proposing to add to the installation, nor upgrade the supply or anything other than put a different...

The PME note refers to the fact that this is a TN-C-S sysytem, so the earth actually routes through the supply neutral line. The Local supplier decides what their supply is capable of doing and fit a fuse accordingly - normally 80A or 100A. Which it is may be marked somewhere or you may have...

That's a bit different from "running" a cable in a cavity.

I have heard, if a little apochryphally, of trips being caused by surges from outside the premises due to industrial services. In your case, look to see if there is anything that cuts in or out during that period. As it is confined to this narrow time band, it is not going to be a faulty RCD...

You're not allowed to run any cable in a cavity, certainly above the DPC, anymore. Building Regs Part C. Can't suggest anything else without seeing plans.

Basically, I would say no (the OSG says "Supplementary bonding is not required to metal parts supplied by plastic pipes"), but it could depend on where the radiator tails go and if they, in any way, come into contact with anything that might connect them to earth or to another conductor. See...

The only one I could find that might do the job is the one Breezer suggested, here http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGDT20.html though, as he says, you may need to couple it to a relay to handle the load of a pump. I think the pipe stat is the best idea - the problem is you need to keep...

If you have followed Stem's plan above. It can be either, it just depends on how it has been connected. If you look inside the fan at which has been connected where, you'll know for sure. Otherwise, try the yellow (slleved with Red) first and if it works you were right. If not, try the red...

I've seen a number of these and they all seem to be in houses that date from the late 70's. Was it in vogue then to do it this way?

In that case, take the switched live for the fan out of the loop and connect it to the returning switched live for the light. The fan will still continue for a little while after the light is switched off as that is what it is designed to do. Just leave it for a while and check it turns itself...

Yes you can. Make sure the exterior light is a good one (some of the cheaper ones really don't protect the connections from moisture well enough) and that the ingoing cable enters the fitting from below so that water cannot run down the cable into it. I prefer to fit via a DP switch to a...

I did work as a plumbers mate for a while. I have never, as an electrician, had to do anything as distasteful as kneeling over a toilet, on a urine soaked floor, trying to prise the old plumbers putty out of the connection to the soil pipe. I know which I chose and why......

Not really, as it is the overall resistance through the earthing system to earth that matters, not just the resistance across any bond. You'll only get an accurate reading using a proper earth loop resistance tester. Depending on what sort of earth you have, the range of acceptable values will...

A 9.5kW shower will draw around 42 Amps. The cable will be OK but the MCB is under rated. He will need to replace the MCB. If there is no RCD protection, I'd recommend an RCBO. Tell him to look up Supplementary bonding on the NIC site and read their leaflet to ensure he's getting the best...

You could try something like this to reduce the clutter slightly. http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=ANRS2HOG2KFLWCSTHZOCFFI?id=12362&p=x4&ts=49186&destination=/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp%3Fid%3D12362%26p%3Dx4 or this http://www.allaboutelectrics.co.uk/index.php?doc=12&vid=1295