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I take it that means you're creating 3 separate dwellings?

I think one of the things I was getting at was the bit about just wiring a plug socket into where it was cut and confirming that bit was, as I think we all suspected, a spur off a JB in the ring. The PIR bit was that a non BCO appointed tester could only issue a PIR and not an Installation or...

I think it's quite a good idea for the fridge and freezer to be non-RCD protected. If the RCD tripped on day one of your 14 day holiday there'd be a stench in the kitchen when you got back. The RCD is there to stop people getting a shock of lethal proportions, which is why it is only required...

The PIR will not certify that the installation complies with the Part P. We are already informed that it does not comply with the 16th edition. All screw terminals have the potential to become loose with time - I find that there is slack to take up only a few minutes after the first tightening...

This leaflet http://www.niceic.org.uk/downloads/BestPracGuideJan07secure.pdf provides "best practice" guidance for the situation where you are changing a CU on a system that has no earth in the lighting circuit. Though a cpc in lighting circuits has been required since about 1967 (if my...

If you had made a cods and connected to the CU you might just cause the harm the Part P was designed to avoid. Whether it does so is another matter.

TLC say here http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Systems/DimmerGuide.htm that a number of their dimmers have already been de-rated and will handle the load quoted for the switch.

I might be being thick, but I can't locate that model number on the Electrolux site.

300 Watts does not need a separate circuit and connecting it into a ring final would be fine. Read this http://www.niceic.org.uk/downloads/NL139supp.pdf it will tell you a bit about the bathroom zoning system and where you can place things. Provided the zones allowed, I would connect a heater...

The one that winds me up is when people "arks" questions...

These units are, generally, controlled via a single controller inside the mounting unit. The main feed goes in and the feeds to the fan and light out, the remote sensor plugs into this same controller with a headphone style plug. Any problems with the control of these is, almost certainly, due...

At 230V I make that a tad short of 49 Amps. Remember, that is the load that will be drawn when absolutely every part of the installation is drawing max power. Apart from a big Christmas dinner, that's not likely to happen that often, so you could get away with connecting the 2 to the existing...

Practically speaking, I think your chances of being able to do this without some major disruption are pretty much nil. No matter what lights you use, they will still need an airspace around them to avoid overheating - chances are that won't be available between the plasterboard and the roof...

I'd not put an RCD at the switchfuse, you're only protecting against the effects of cable damage and the Ze of a PME is so low that any L to E/N fault in the SWA will pop the breaker. I, personally, would earth through the SWA not a TT. Even the best TT Ze I've seen (sub 10 ohms) is far less...

Can you post a pic of this? I would expect the nut and washer to be used to clamp the wire between 2 larger plates. So, the setup would be a fixed contact plate, an unfixed plate the washer and the nut, but I really can't be hard and fast without seeing the unit. Does the instruction manual...

Starbreaker system - once the requisite busbar is in place you just pull 'em out and pop 'em in. Ooh er missus :)

I like Crabtree kit, for no real specific reason I just find it a tad more robust to work with than Wylex. Apert from choice of equipment are you perfectly happy you know what you are doing? What sort of board are you planning to replace with the 6 + 6?

Customers whose reply to things you tell them is "Are you sure" - as if I'd have told them if I wasn't. Whose reply to "Where is your CU....fuse box....electrcity meter...?" is "Dunno - do you need to see it?" - No, I was only asking in passing. and, who, after sayng "I need it doing as...

The BRE researched this matter (though I can't find the link to that doc at the moment) and concluded that Fire Hoods are not required in a residential setting with normal plasterboard ceilings. A fire hood is, probably, only required when downlighters are installed in a block of flats, say...

I think I know what you're getting at. Wylex do a range of dual tariff cu's. They're like 2 CU's, mounted one next to the other, or one above the other, with 2 main isolator switches and 2 DIN rails. Look here http://www.electrium.co.uk/Wylex2006(1).pdf at page 6 and 10. Is that what you...