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Thanks for that idea too. Is it the silicone that would hold it down, or the weight of the timber?

Thank you, I hadn't considered using the ballast as a base instead of a weight. But it's even simpler - I can use the mounting screws to just screw it to a brick, or to a piece of one of my limestone slabs. That won't be going anywhere. Rubber Butyl tape is also a great option for waterproof...

So..... to get this back on topic.. Anyone have any thoughts on the options listed above? 1 3M VHB 2 Velcro 3 Ballast 4 Other

Hi all, any advice on the best way to proceed with this? I've bought a couple of LED wall lights which come with a separate solar panel, about the size of an iPad. These have a mounting bracket designed to be screwed to a fence with a couple of screws. I would like to keep these out of view...

Thanks Ian. This is a bit 'heath robinson' even by my own standards, but I ended up fitting a 110mm to 68mm reducer onto the Aco pipe, cut a length of downpipe and fitted it so it ran over the top of the gully and into the drain. I then filled the void with about 100mm of concrete to fix it all...

I'm wondering if a repair in-situ could be done because the entire patio and the garage floor is concreted making any excavation very difficult. The area of damage is the top of the trap, about the size of a 10p piece, and also the neck of the ceramic pipe we were hoping to connect the aco...

Blimey! Thanks for your input. If that's correct I can't really afford to get into anything too big. Presumably I can repair the hole in the trap somehow. I'll take some better pictures tomorrow and put everything else one hold until I understand what's going on :(

Anyone have any thoughts on the simplest solution to this so that I can try to attack it at the weekend? Thanks all!

Hello all, total novice here with a new Aco installation that I'm trying to connect up, but have hit a snag. It's hard to explain so I'll let some pictures do the talking. The Aco runs in front of my garage doors and the main input to it is the downpipe from the gutter. Here's a pic before the...

What sort of design have you got? I would have thought that you need to remove the OSB floor first and build up the frame with 4x2 timbers on the base. Once you've secured that with your headplate at the top you can do the roof rafters and return to the floor and even line the studs on the...

Hello all, total novice here with a new Aco installation that I'm trying to connect up, but have hit a snag. It's hard to explain so I'll let some pictures do the talking. The Aco runs in front of my garage doors and the main input to it is the downpipe from the gutter. Here's a pic before the...

Currently elbow height, which works for me. But you have a point, there's probably scope for situating it even lower down. I would have liked it to be closer in height to the other doors around the patio for visual consistency, but if that's too tricky then at least I can fit something that works.

ideal hand height. Above it would be even better, but the mortise and tenon joint is there and I don't want to cut that. Overall this entire section occupies the best position for any handle. It also matches the handle heights of the adjacent 3 doors (kitchen, garden room, side gate).

This is my fallback position: https://www.safe.co.uk/products/willenhall-m3-5-lever-sashlock-50mm.html I’ve found a 50mm mortice lock small enough to fit in the 70mm stile, (hopefully). But this would have to go where that rebated grip is currently positioned, which I’m not sure about...

OK sure, so do you have an example of the sort of thing your referring to so I can get an idea? Thanks

Independant of the lock maybe, but not independant of the latch. If the handle's completely independant of any lock or latch it's completely non functional isn't it? How would it be operated? It would need a separate key and two hands I'd imagine. Ideally I need to have a handle, which can turn...

Well, I'm not too clued up on the various types of lock, but I don know what my requirements are and the restrictions on the door I've got to work with. - Number one requirement is that the door can be opened with one hand using just a handle. My mum has had a stroke and fumbling around with...

...and doesn't do any of the things I require - to operate the door from the outside with a handle. Why is it less secure to add a seperate deadlock to a primary latch/handle?

Thanks for the reply John, that's informative. The reason I wasn't going to fit another nightlatch is that I want to primarily operate the garage door from the outside, not inside. I have Yale P-89-DMG-PB-60 nightlatch as well as a Yale BS1 British Standard nightlatch, but they would need me to...

Well, after spending some time hunting around I've come to the conclusion that a standard sash lock would be ideal, but not possible to fit because of the mortice and tenon joint in the door where I would want to position it. If I placed it underneath that area it would still be a good height...