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Why do you bother with an alarm at all ? All it seems that alarms achieve is p off the nighbours when it goes off with the reaction of "ah that dam siren, someone pleas switch it off" nobody ever thinks oh I'd better take a look to make sure the house isn't being burgled.

Would that be carpetright by any chance ? In my experience they are real cowboys with their never ending 60% off sales. All they do is inflate prices to start with and then take 60% off all the time. I have found better prices and better service from local independent firms.

Screening is the foil or braid in the cable that surrounds all of the wires. The screen is connected to earth at one end, usually at the switch end as there is an earth available in the coms room.

You need the screen to be end to end that is from switch to computer. As the wire needs to be grounded on the equipment. The patch cable has a metal covering on it that makes contact with the socket to make an unbroken shield all the way from the Ethernet port on the computer to the ethernet...

the screen is required to terminate the screening on the cable breezer. Without it the screen on the patch cable will not be very effective.

Strange, that post appeared twice

You really don't want the ADSL going through all this extension wiring it will play havoc on the performance. I would suggest you fit a filtered socket and run your extensions in such a way that most are phone only connected to the filtered output on the socket and the minimum would be connected...

Also Available from ... www.solwise.co.uk www.adslnation.com www.clarity.it www.phonesockets.co.uk Or there are plenty of people selling kit cheap on ebay.

The wires in the junction box look pretty corroded, so to start with I would use some wire wool to rub off the green on the end of the wire. Make sure you use the right type of cable you want a twisted pair cable, meaning either CW1308 or CAT5 cable. From the junction box to the new NTE-5 box...

Yes, kinks in CAT5 cable can cause reflections, therefore reducing the performance dues to packets having to be resent. Before you go ripping it all out though, I would say just try it and see.

For the shielding to be most effective on STP then you will need to have the shielded modules as you will need there to be a continuous connection on the shield. The unshielded modules will have no where to connect the shielding and no way of passing it on to the patch cable.

The NTE socket is the same but I thought NTL had their own cable from the street. IF the line is indeed supplied using BT's local loop then it would just be a case of BT moving the wire in the exchange end from NTL's equipment to BT's.

Sorry but I remain unconvinced, it happens that you are the only one I have spotted as obvious so far but I would jump on any others if I see them. You also happen to have jumped on me first just because I happened to say something you didn't like. Perhaps if your responses to me hadn't been so...

Virtually every post I see from you on this site has a link back to this site that you claim to have no connection to. I'm sorry if you really don't have anything to do with it but it does look very suspicious. And the chip I have is that I get fed up with companies trying to sell stuff in...

If using a the UN27E or UN28F master type RJ45-BT adaptor only two wires are needed as follows... RJ45 4 blue -> BT connector 2 RJ45 5 white/blue -> BT connector 5 If using a secondary type UN28G adaptor then you will need to connect in addition. RJ45 2 orange -> BT Connector 3 The...

Well if you want to fit your own you would be best fitting the proper BT style NTE5 master socket. Plenty on eBay just search for NTE5 or try one of the following on-line retailers. Quick google search throws up Broadbandbuyer looks like one of the cheapest...

If you want to save a few £'s try solwise. http://www.solwise.co.uk/adsl_splitters.htm

Seeing as how you have just moved in BT should sort it for you.

Do you have broadband ? If so have you put a filter on the answering machine when you plugged it in ?

The odd thing is that our 1930's semi has 3"x2" joists on the ground floor and there is a basement underneath ! The floor has a lot of bounce in it and I will be fitting a couple of 6"x2"s in each room to reduce some of the bounce, but that has held all the furniture for the ground floor for...