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i'd recommend going to somewhere like B & Q and buying small "testers" of different finishes then trying them all on an offcut then pick the one you like

in the past i've set the windows flush with the battens then run an inch wide board up the side of the window which comes out enough to cover the end of the boarding. i angle the tops and run a head over the window (which can be covered with lead). had you know about this problem early on you...

Green oak

As long as you have a good lap on the boards at least an inch and when you fix them you don't fix through the top of board underneath there is nothing wrong with featheredge it has been tried and tested over hundreds of years

Saw blade is between 2 and 5 mm depending on the saw

i always hang mine in two halfs if its having a natural timber finish. if its going to be painted screw it as you said with battens on the face then fill the holes when your done

try TK Components Multiwood crestwood or pws these are some of the biggest door manufactures in the uk i dont know if they sell to private buyers as they supply to trade hope u have some luck with these

i would recommend pulling the bit in a pillar drill as they have a habit of wondering and you can easily ruin the door. try it on some scrap first

most architects have a numbers of builders they use regularly just ask some if you can tender some of there upcomming work if u do a good job its likley you'll get asked to price some more, and architect talk so if they like your work they will pass your name around

it depends on your business. it might not generate business itself but it gets your name round the area. so when people are looking for your trade your name could already be in their head. as for security, if your worried and you are going to keep your van for a while, fit slam locks i've got...

bite the bullet replace the whole joist then you know its stable. could be quicker than trying to cut a joint in situ. is the renovation covered by building regs? if so they would probably want a new joist

according to my sparks you earth the main incoming supplys then you don't have to cross bond all exposed pipe work. check with your electrican to see if he wants this done. You can run the cable yourself, might save you a bit of money

marine ply is external grade, there is less chance of the finished door moving around (warping etc) i made a pair of doors 6 foot by 4 foot with groving the face took me a day to make and hang.

Its a laminate jig i got it from an Ebay shop kitchensurplus http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/kitchensurplus/

i have done it by hand before, but a router gives you a far better cut and its a lot easier. find a local chippy and ask him to do the cuts for you it will take him about 20 min and will cost you a drink

for just one or two holes b&q range of core cutters their cheap and do the job. cut a template in a bit of batten and clamp it firmly it will help the bit not to slide across the worktop and helps to hold the water to keep the bit cool

got mine on ebay use daily (i'm a kitchen fitter) 35 quid

I'm a kitchen fitter and when we upgrade clients consumer units the sparks we use charges us 350 a job (some he wins some he losses) it takes him about half a day. the most common extra is that to have a Part P installation both the water and Gas (if applicable) have to be earthed back to the...

be carful what you guarantee some materials have a year or two on them after that you got to buy it again. if its just the labour you want to guarantee write it on the bottom of your invoice. the common time is 1 year

2 by 2 frame external grade ply wood 1/2 inch if you want to make it look nice use a "v grove" bit in the router and a straight edge at ruffly 100mm centers will last 5 -10 years if its painted well and quick and cheap