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can't advise you on how to do it 100% but you only run the 110mm to a toilet and/or the vent vent must be external and above any nearby opening in the building (i.e. a window) unless you use an air admitance valve, even then it should be well away (i.e. loft?) strap on boss for the other...

keep pressing plus till you get desired value...

first off, is the 110mm already vented and running elsewhere? (i.e. toilet stack?) if so, no point running 110 to just the bath, get a strap on boss to the existing stack then run smaller waste pipe to the bath, normally a 40mm waste unless it's a long run, others would be able to advise...

why don't you try it and see before you rip anything out? gotta be a lot cheaper if it actually works. if your absolutely intent on ensuring you can have 1hr+ worth of continuous shower, (highly unlikely, you'll have at the very least a few mins drying and changing clothes time between...

Not just a "bigger version" but a stainless un-vented one, your current one is a vented cylinder, in that if it starts to boil over, the excess hot water (hot water expands in volume) it escapes back up to the tank in the loft which then should start pouring out the overflow on the header...

anti freeze ???? do you mean corrosive inhibitor ?

1/2" bsp refers to the thread on the tap. you just get a 1/2" tap connector or flexi to marry up to your pipework (15mm or 22mm)

you've said you've moved the stat to 45C and 50C, leave it at 60C you need the stored water to be below the stat to be 55C to kill legionella in the hot water tank, the stat is a third of the way up to ensure all the water above it is at least that temp. have a look at this wikipedia -...

more info needed, What is the model name and number? presuming it's a combi, it could be the secondary heat exchanger is scaled up

old ATX supplies can be a little heavy on the 5v side and lacking on the 12v that modern boards need, old PSU's might be missing the 4/8 pin 12v for the motherboard or a 6/8 pin PCI-E supply for a decent graphics card, something you'd have to check when you get it. when it get to 6 years...

just going to have to play the "the heating system isn't adequate" card with them until they yield, pictures with thermostat set at 21 and a thermometer hung next to it showing 10c then another with boiler flow and return temps, with the camera date and time stamp on it. what sort of...

it also sounds like they should be tackling the thermal losses if possible, i bet upstairs is loving their lovely warm floor

sounds more like a leak than expansion failure then to me.

problem you've got is you've not got enough rad's / large enough radiators. the boiler can only heat the water safely up to 80c or there abouts before it cuts out and waits for the water to cool. if the radiators are scorching hot but the room cold, the radiators can't output enough heat...

don't know the boiler and i'm not a plumber, but... just looked at first userguide when i googled your boiler, on one of the first pages, T stands for "DHW pre-heat" This makes sure the hot water is hot as soon as possible, and in trouble shooting... couldn't see anything in the...

sludge and magnetite filtering normally

been wondering why 100 square meters has been quoted loads! so that would be 10 meters wide by 10 meters tall? the foundations for my house aint 100 sq. meters! :lol: maybe he meant 100 square centimeters?? aka 10cm x 10cm if he's talking cubic meters, that different again!

looks like a trip hazard for one thing!

press the yellow button and the rcd should go to the off position. if it's not boiling correctly, new kettle time :?:

depends on the TRV tbh, if its bi-directional flow, then it can operate either way :)