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should be positive 5, not minus 5, normal water freezes at 0 degrees

you could try a negative head pump before you subject yourself to an electric shower http://www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/Default.aspx?PageID=29

ok that makes a lot of difference, are you sure all the hot water is pumped? as Seco is asking, is the shower head level or above the top of the cold water tank?[/u]

if you can't find an isolator, stop cock, internal or one in street, drain down, fit isolator and appliance valve mains on, check for leaks. self cutting tap = try and cut with water live, mis judge it slightly, water going everywhere, scramble for stop cock, internal one broke...

if there is no zone valve on the 28mm pipe, there isn't anything to stop the water thermosyphing up to the cylinder, pointless exercise having a thermostat on it! is any of the 28mm pipe hidden? i doubt a thermostat would have been fitted to it without any control Pictures say a thousand...

you may be better off taking a cold feed from the header tank for the shower and a twin impeller shower pump for it. p.s. bristan pump says the following : Usage: Ideal for boosting a single water supply from a shower mixer or shower head.[/u]

like that?

If I was doing it, i'd have a 2 port on each heating circuit which loop off the mid position. then you can still room stat the two heating circuits seperately with the 3 port getting the last say in it all. so bit like a Y plan with the heating side going to the 2 ports before it hits the...

by the sounds of it you have a C plan layout, where the room stat can call the boiler and pump, and the cylinder stat call the boiler and controls a 28mm zone valve. have you got 4 sets of pipework from the boiler, 2 in 22mm and 2 in 28mm (inch+ pipe) can you check on the pipework...

you could try silicone sealant remover, softens the silicone and lets you peel it back off, can get it in a tube like you get silicone. don't know how it will react with the laminate so be careful!

could it be a blocked vent pipe to the cold water tank??

that's a bloody trough! :lol:

Don't know cheapest place, but i brought two lengths of 2m x 22mm the other day from wickes, instead of £17.99 the girl on the counter put it through as 15mm, £9.99, even though i said 22mm, 2 meter :lol: used the pipe bender on these to do my bath tap feeds, one of the pipes had creases on...

no what should happen on the old setup is this... stat set to 30c + heating timer off = boiler off Stat set to 30c + heating timer on = boiler on till it hits 30c & relights as required to maintain it stat set to 15c + heating timer off = boiler off stat set to 15c + heating timer on =...

two motorised valves suggests S plan, Y plan uses a mid position valve. Safety device on the HW cylinder should be a T&PRV, you'll figure out which one this is by looking near the top of the cylinder for knob + pipe that should run outside. When your asking the boiler to heat the central...

the original setup sounds like it was doing what it was designed to do, timer on front of boiler says in what times the boiler could turn on, Nothing to do with temperature, just the time windows it can operate in. The thermostat telling the boiler it needed to come on to raise the temp...

Not a problem running it all without a pump, get it plumbed in 22mm as much as you can. the shower will need to stepped down to 15mm to fit normally but you could use a reducing tee off the bath feed for this. if you decide you need a pump later, you should plumb the bath and shower...

I was planning something similar at my house. Came to the conclusion that for the shower, it was far far simpler to have the shower on low pressure. i'd take a cold tank feed (low pressure) and a hot feed (still low pressure) and try a low pressure thermostatic shower mixer on it. If that...

Just to rule out a possible, you have made sure the cold and hot are into the right sides of the mixer / tried it back to front? if it's a long run, I wouldn't expect much flow out of it, as you've in theory got "0.06bar" of head from 600mm, even less once you take pipe resistances into it...

Only other thing that springs to mind, is it a bi-directional flow TRV? (should be but check!) if it's not, and it's on the wrong side (flow instead of return) then it will be forced shut by the incoming water and stay closed.