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on average we charge £65 +vat but that includes servicing as well. None of this walk in and walk out business.

is is very normal for a condensing boiler to emit steam from the flue outlet. This should of been taken into consideration when deciding where to terminate the flue. If it is emitting steam into your next door neighbours property then this is really not good practice. Some other manufactures...

any UPS 15 - 50 pump will do . Grundfos are one of the best but they are quite expensive in comparision to Wilo and other makes.

I can't see how band B boilers are time proven. Without the second HE on they were band C and majority worked fine. But it is only recently they have started with this add on aluminium HE. time will only tell as the second HE are not servicable and I wouldn't like to guess how long an aluminium...

well if they want lifetime guarantee on the system then i would want more than £568 for a powerflush. :shock: I was just saying this is what i charge for a powerflush up in sunny lancashire. If i'm doing it at the same time as a boiler change then there is some room for discount. If there is...

depends on how much you charge of course. You have to remember most decent powerflushing pumps are approx £900 + so you have to charge £50 -£60 just for hire of the pump or what ever per job to get your money back for the equipment. I can't see £600 in a domestic powerflush tho. £300 seems more...

i have my WRAS quallification which was a BPEC exam i remember doing but i'm not a member of a CPS for plumbing. So from when exactly does all this come in like it has with Gas. Also apart from Corgi who else does the CPS for plumbing?

cheers

yeah most pre mix burners i have come accross have them on. Never had much dealing with them to be honest but id be firstly checking condensate trap and pipe, Check burner gasket is ok and also check HE is ok and not blocked externally(i don't mean sludged up on the inside). Check the flue as...

Is there anywhere online where i can read the regs. I need to look up soil pipes and vent stacks etc. cheers.

The only boiler im aware of that this can be done on is the broag remeha avanta plus combi. I was told that if you buy the 35kw version you can adjust the settings at engerneer level to up it to a 39kw. Maybe this is true on certain boilers. And about manufactures making it harder for the 1...

IMO the best boiler i have come across is a Viessmann. They are very expensive but very good quallity. Now value for money i would go with a Broag Remeha Avanta plus. A rated and a bargin for the price. They are good quallity and reliable too.

well i changed one in a 230 and a 240 only last week and it was 20 mins of a job. They are still a Giannoni diverter valve but with a E possition valve body. I think the ravenheat's are the F possition.

yeah sorry 280. I forgot the 350 has 2 pumps. :oops: well anyway yeah 280 is a doddle. and 230 and 240 as well.

very tricky to do but like others said it is possible. First of all turn electricity off to boiler. Then cover the pcb up with a plastic bag to stop water getting in. One you have removed the old one and start to put new one it just get all the nuts started and leave them all slack until you...

probably the ball valve. It is because of the water pressure is very high no doubt. It is caused by the washer on the ball valve moving back and forth hundreds of times a sec. You could try swapping washer but the best end to it would be a Torbeck ball valve. They slow the water down going into...

i was told by the Sentinel rep that if you forget to drain the X400 out then all it will do is drop the contents and it will return back to as it was. All x400 does is mobilise the sludge so that it can be removed when drained. I don't think it is that all that acidic. If it was X800 ferroquest...

I've got a Viessmann Vitodens 300 (complete with solar panels). Been in approx 2 and half years now. Supurb boiler but a bit pricy.

i had this once with a 820/20. I messed about for ages trying to find out what it was and i think it turned out that it was the fan resister and in the end it blew the PCB so we thought it would be best to replace the boiler due to its age.

has the installer refused to come back? if not give him the benifit of the doubt.