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Just called worcester bosch technical support for advice on a weather compensator for my greenstar 24 Ri. They advised me that they don't do anything of that sort for my boiler!!!! I don't know much about these things so wondered if someone (Hailsham would be perfect) could advise me on them...

As always, many thanks for your interest. I must be honest, I'm a little out of my depth with the technical side! Hailsham, thanks for links. I am trying to digest it all but there's alot to take in and understand. What i am concluding so far though is that an auto bypass is completely...

Ok, so the outside rad idea is a bit bonkers. I'll run the bypass through either through the bathroom or something like that. Hailsham, why would decreasing the rad flow and return diff to 20 lower the output. Surely it would be achieved by increasing the flow and thus raising the temperature...

brilliant :lol: Well it wouldn't be at the cost of the whole system as the bypass would be closed completely when the CH system is open. The outside rad would only come into play when there a need to diserpate heat during overrun.

So, i balanced my rads today so all rad returns are returning the same temperature which is 20 degrees below the primary flow. Before anyone says it should be 11 or 12 degrees, my worcester bosch boiler specifies that optimum performance is achienved when there is a 20 degree difference between...

Thanks to all whom have given me there time and expertese on this thread. Due to evolving subject matter i will raise a new thread about balancing and bypass's. Would your support on that one.

I'm not sure but will check tonight. I think i must balance all my rads otherwise hotter water will return to the boiler before the colder rads have had the chance! I shall balance all the rads and then see what happens. I did wonder whether the boilers modulating calcs are based on return...

When i say it quietens right down, i mean that the system hasn't turned off but the boiler is modulating. Have i missed the point?

I called the worcester bosch tecnical team who advised me. It could be that that's there stock answer which is a overkill, but what to do!

Wat i don't get though, is that if my boilers fan quietens right down. Though it has reached temperature and is now reducing flame to maintain temperature, then surely this implies that it is at the designated temperature for that position on the temperature dial.

My boiler is a worcester bosch 24ri (or may be an 18ri, can't remember!). Bypass is open during operation because i have a modlating pump which doesn't work to well with auto bypass valves. Instead i fitted a taconova inline flow setter. I'm considering routing the bypass through our...

My other thought was whether the gas/air ratio is correct. I had a neighbour install the boiler for me for £300. He's a fully qualified corgi plumber but can't imagine he would have had a worcester bosch manometer and done a full check. Is this theory a case of 'A little knowledge is a...

I'll do a more thorough test tonight but i know the bypass is allowing 4 litres per minute when CH motorised valve is open, and 5 litres per minute when closed. 5 lpm is the boilers stated requirement for over run.

When the flow was measureing 65. The inlet of the closest rad to the pump was 50 degrees when though all rads where fully open and unbalanced. This question is probably got too many variables to answer but i'll ask it anyway. If all the rads are fully open as they are, and the room thermotat...

So i followed your guidance and the highest temperature reading i've managed to get from the primary flow is 65 degrees. This reding was taken with the boiler on maximum. Its a worcester bosch 24ri and it's about three years old. I know that boilers modulate the gas flow based on temperature...

What about the dial thermometer that are held ipon with a spring. There £12 so could buy two and leave them on the flow and return permanently? Thanks btw

I've realised that 😞 Can you recomend a cheap but accurate one?

I just bought a rolson infrared thermometer to measure my Primary flow and return as well as both ends of the rads to optimise my system. Problem is it is giving me duff readings. The instructions say that this can happen if the surfaces are either transluscend or shiny. The remedy is...

The rafters run at 90degrees to the upstairs floor joists so i think i'm okay there.

Well i suppose if a steel as deep as the joists can't bear the weight of the brick walls it will need to hold up, i shall have to knock the walls down upstairs and replace with stud walls. This ought to bring the load within tolerance. Does anyone know a structural engineer who can do calcs...