Search results

At 1200W, you'll need to dedicate a whole room just to fit the dimmer in your house :lol:

In my experience, compression fittings provide adequate electrical continuity to not require a separate electrical connection be made.

You need to do more than just earth it to the pipe. Use the search facility to look for earthing or bonding etc. Bonding in bathrooms etc is quite extensive.

It won't be easy to use the existing cooker supply unless you know the load of the oven and can down-size the circuit breaker. Either that or you will have to use 6mm cable (which means trying to fit two 6mm cables in the terminals of the cooker isolator) between the cooker isolator and the new...

Hmm there's a thought...St. Breezer , not sure it's got quite the same ring to it but maybe it'll just take some getting used to :D

I'm preparing now for when mine is older. Most of my new house is going to be wired in radials via contactors. The other bedrooms will be via contactors controlled from my bedroom so I won't get any teenage loud music tantrums; one flick of the key-switch and I can isolate the power to that...

YEEEEE!!! HAAAAAA!!! :P

You are honoured, I think breezer has drawn this superb diagram especially for you :idea:

Sounds like they've wired your lighting with twin red+earth. If you've already taken it apart without labelling the conductors you'll have to buy a tester. This situation is not good and you should get your lighting looked at by someone who knows what they're doing.

Oh I see, your eyes ain't what they used to be eh...? Too fast for you? If you think that's fast you should see me work :lol: Is this one better?

What is the load of the new oven? What size is the cable supplying the cooker at the moment (probably 6mm but just check). Generally it's the hob which pulls the most current, so the oven may not be much of a load, so you could (depending on the answers to the questions above) reduce the...

Breezer is quite right, if you're going to reduce the current carrying capacity of a cable in a circuit, then you must provide a suitable fuse to protect it from fault current. Generally you fuse down before the point at which you reduce the size of your cable, but there is a regulation (but...

Ahh well, if you're a sweaty sock I don't know if I should... :wink: There's no need for a seperate supply. What size is the cooker supply? Can you get access to the ring (for the sockets) in the kitchen?

Thanks for the info guys. Have any of you had any experience with 'resilient bars'? It seems to be a good idea but the only downside seems to be that I will make my room a fair bit smaller and they can also be used on the ceiling. I have got a window but the house is in such a state they are...

Have a look here for more information.

I'm not a plumber or heating engineer. I think the difference is that direct has electric elements built into the cylinder to heat the water. Therefore heated directly by the built in elements. Indirect has basicly a coil of pipe which goes around inside the cylinder where hot water...

NICE! :lol: :lol: :lol: . I'll refrain from commenting about some DIY bodge-it-yourself electricians. The sad thing is, from some of the work I've seen, it was probably an electrician who did it. Touch-wood, I've never yet managed to hit a cable or pipe, but on the odd occasion I've used...

I see you're in Canada so I don't know if things work the same there but over here there is no way you can have a dimmer attached at both ends - even if they are both two-way. Your options are to either live with it or swap the two switches around to have the dimmer upstairs and the normal...

not necessarily... :wink:

How is your wiring arranged at the moment for your shower? Surface mount or flush mount pull-cord? How will you run cables between all the accessories? Loft space or not? I have a better idea for you but need as much info as poss to see if it's viable.