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Silly question but I take it you disconnected the cables from the consumer unit before you tried pulling it up? You may have trouble getting talc down the tube; if all else fails, try Yellow 77. It's a teflon based cable pulling lubricant and works a treat if you pump the conduit full of it and...

You'll often find exactly the same on a larger scale in some built up areas. I've got a UPS powering some of the equipment in my place and it monitors and displays supply voltage (and adjusts accordingly). Voltage dips at certain times of the day when power is being consumed (ie weekday...

It's not any harder to connect 20 lights than it is to connect 2 lights, just link from one to another. The only difference is that you need more links and JB's. The limiting factors are the load already on the circuit, the size of protective device and the size of the cable. Switches are a...

I have come across it before and it was a faulty RCD; you may find eventually it just won't reset. If the installation has not undergone a periodic test and inspection, then get it done. It should cost no more than £100 if it's only a 'granny annexe'. The RCD I had a problem with was some years...

I think it's a case of applying Ikea's principals; you only pay for what you use and you assemble it yourself. They keep the cost down by only supplying what you need, if you enter the box using conduit then the grommett would be useless, therefore you don't get supplied with a grommett because...

Have you not got gas in the road? If you have, I would say your best option in the long term is to get it laid to the cottage. It doesn't cost as much as you'd think; though the boards (electricity and gas) have strange pricing methods, but it's well worth getting a quote. I know someone who...

I can't see why you would have difficulty getting hold of 4mm, but there's no harm in using 6mm. Whatever is easier for you.

600A? Are you sure that's the A.C. input current? Not the D.C. output current? Either that or you're welding the Eiffel Tower! I'm guessing here, but I think you may mean the output current and it probably operates at between 50 and 80 volts on the secondry side. If you can get some more...

tlc-direct have got a Hager 63A 30mA RCD for £18 and £4 for an enclosure or, as breezer suggested, a Wylex 6+6 split load board for £34.50.

RCBO's certainly are available in ratings greater than 40A. I think what alexnic is getting confused with is that the most commonly rated RCBO's are those rated up to 40A, and are therefore the only ones that are factory assembled. You can get B,C or D type RCBO's anything from 1A to 63A MCB...

Looks like a 2-way (4module) IP65 consumer unit using an RCD as a main switch. You may want slightly more capacity than this and I would always make sure I had some spare capacity, even if you don't need it now, it might be useful in the future and the cost difference will be small. As...

Can I ask what size cable you have going to your 10.5kW shower? It's not quite as easy as just screwing an RCD onto the bus-bar of the fuse board. You can buy a protective device that will screw straight onto the bus bar; it's called an RCBO(not all board manufacturers manufacture them and they...

You will have a hard time terminating the 2.5mm cables in certain lighting accessories. If you have any 2-way switching, you'd have to try to get hold of some 3core+earth 2.5mm cable (I've never seen it before). There are lots of I reasons why I wouldn't recommend using 2.5mm cable for lighting...

All the earths should be connected together to ensure that it is continuous throughout the circuit; even though it's not being used for this type of fitting. It may not be necessary now but, in theory, the fitting could be changed at a later date for fitting which does require an earth and...

When I was at college we were made to use a stripping knife(a stanley knife is not recommeded because it's so easy to damage the insulation of the other cores), which you don't see too often now. I think most people strip T&E by pulling the CPC out along the length of the sheath, I can't see it...

You may have only one length of mini-trunking going to the socket, but that doesn't automatically mean that it's a spur, take the lid off and have a look. Just so you are aware that you do have another option in the event that the socket in your garage is a spur, depending on certain...

If you aren't able to determine the load of the kit to be used in the studio, work on the principal that you can't have too many sockets and in providing more sockets, be careful you don't load up the circuit too much, it may be worth considering providing a second circuit (make sure they're on...

There are not many occasions where you would want to use 2.5mm cable for lighting. As Gees has already said, you'll find it really hard to terminate into most domestic lighting accessories. The only time I've used 2.5mm for lighting is to minimise volt drop or due to the collective load of...

I agree that 3 core is probably the best bet for you but, as breezer said, there's nothing wrong with just using the SWA as the protective conductor provided you've done the calculations. Often the cross sectional area of the SWA is significantly larger than a copper core (though copper is...

I'd have a look behind other sockets and switches in the house to see what other gems you find