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I did suggest that but the roof designer person advised against it because it may weaken them. Is this the done thing?

I'm trying to work out how to provide lateral restraint for the angled wall on the left (if it's required at all). I'm using metal web joists and it's only single storey. On the TRA site (page 13 at in https://www.tra.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/dlm_uploads/tra_metal_joists__single_final.pdf)...

I think I'm going to spend the time and cut the bricks as anything other than bricks will require a taller fascia. I'll probably use some masonry screws to screw the timber to the bricks. I'm struggling to think of something that is simpler than cutting a piece of wood and gluing it. I think...

It would be good to hear about your much simpler way. I've posted a photo above. I don't know whether that shows you what you need.

Here's a picture. Engineering brick is only there to push the insulation out of the way so that you can see the brickwork clearer. On the right, it's a firring strip on a metal web joist. The brickwork is currently lower by approx 75-125mm.

No, no roof over-hang on any of the sides.

I've covered it up for the evening now but it looks pretty much identical to the video but without the timber on the outer skin. Here's a picture from the video . My inner skin and insulation is also a bit higher than in the video/picture. I may be able to get a photo tomorrow.

I'm doing a flat roof (brick and block cavity walls) and I'm reaching what is potentially the final course of bricks. I was planning to cut the last course of bricks at angles and then fix the OSB deck to them. I've realized that this will take a long time. I'm wondering whether I should use a...

Isn't the top of the board unfinished?

I have considered it, but I'm a little unsure whether there would be any issues with water penetration. I believe the metal ones push down on the rubber and have an EPDM washer. It's probably a good idea, but it's not something I've seen.

I'm doing an EPDM roof (Resitrix) and it looks like there are two common types of edging. There is the "Sure Edge" and the metal edge trim. My roof isn't square, so a couple of corners aren't 90 degree angles. This means that the plastic edging would need to be cut and glued, but I think I...

(y) I wasn't going to glue the joints. Some people have said that it makes it hard to get up in future, but if I ever remove the EPDM then the OSB is likely to be ruined anyway as it will be stuck to the OSB. I think i'll glue them to reduce the chance of noises etc. I'll see how it goes...

My extension flat roof is L-shaped ('wrap around extension'). I have T&G OSB for the roof, but I can't think of a way to use the T&G for every joint as some of the joist spacings aren't 600mm. I think I will need to cut some and just leave an expansion gap (3mm IIRC). Is this what people do in...

My UPVC has gone yellow where I sprayed the activator for Mitre Bond. I've tried Isopropyl, UPVC cleaner and water, but they don't seem to make a difference. How do people usually deal with this? I could try using a cream cleaner, but that will be a polish and will change the finish, so that's...

Timber is a good idea. Blocks will be cheaper as I already have them, but timber would be much quicker I'm planning to continue my insulation (Dritherm 32, not PIR) through the cavity either way.

I don't want air flow. I will be having MVHR in my main room. The other 'room' is a garage, so air flow doesn't really matter in the garage.

I'm doing a flat roof with joists sitting on a block wall. I'm planning to put blocks between each joists i.e. almost 600mm between the joists. I was wondering how high the blocks should go and perhaps what their purpose is? Are they just there to prevent twisting of the joists? Is it best to...

I'm not sure what you're describing, but it sounds like it could be a good idea. What sort of straps do you mean? I've also just had the idea of bolting timber (like a wallplate) to the underside of the steep and then using something like truss clips with twist nails. So it'll be like a wall...

I would lose head height, need to remove and cut blocks, and have additional timber to raise the height, so I don't really want to do that. I may also need to rethink locations of pipes etc. It's a garage, so the additional height would allow more storage. I'm hoping that there would be an easy...

I have a timber joist that will sit on a steel beam and will support a flat roof. It will also meet a pitched roof as shown in the picture below. I was wondering whether a screw would be adequate to prevent uplift or whether something like nails would be required? I would also put some blocking...