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Hi, I have a garage floor which is somewhat uneven, about 15mm of variance and was wondering if I could use a self leveling compound to level it. I seem to remember seeing somewhere that most self leveling compounds are not suitable for use as a final floor and require some other floor covering...

Is this building subject to building regs? I.E. Is it part of an outbuilding less than 30m2 or part of the main house? If not subject to building regs then you can add as much or as little insulation as you want otherwise you will need to minimum u values.

Have you asked your neighbor if they would want a simular garage? I have seen this done several times before where two garages are built between two semies with a party wall in the centre. This would maximise the internal width of your garage as the wall would be straddling the boundary. I'm...

Just because a manhole is on your land does not mean it's not part of a public sewer. If any waste other than that from your house flows though it then there is a good chance it's a public sewer. I was able to obtain a definative map from my local building control dept which had all public...

If you don't already have one, I would recommend that you go out and buy a CO (carbon monoxide) detector ASAP. If there is a gas installation downstairs and it was instaled by an uncertified installer then it could be giving off CO which could then leak into your flat and kill you. A detector...

From my knowlage, Kingspan TP10, TW55 and TF70 are all actually exactly the same board.

frogged: a brick with a recess in the top, these maybe laid either frog up or frog down. perf's: perforated bricks, bricks with holes all the way though from one side to the other. Your garage will almost certainly be built with one of the above (solid bricks do exist but are very...

It maybe possible to use a catnic lintel designed for a solid wall such as a CN81C http://www.catnic.com/lintels/CN81C.aspx

One way to find out would be to measure the distance between the edge of your lounge window nearest the party wall and also the edge of the lounge window of the house next door nearest the wall on the outside, then measure the distance inside between the edge of your window and the party wall on...

If you put a lintel over it, how would you get the cover off if you ever needed to rod it or anything like that? IMHO, you need to either redesign your conservatory so it does not cross the manhole or move the manhole (difficulty depends on how deep it is, type of construction and number of...

I'm using regular 7n concrete blocks for my garage with a cavity fully filled with fibreglass batts. I did consider aerated/thermalite blocks but from what I have read they are a pig to fix things to and I like to hang things like ladders on my garage walls so went with the heavy blocks. One...

in 3-4 weeks

acrows removed and needle holes bricked up

Is this a base slab for a timber framed or sectional garage you are talking about? Also bear in mind that if your floor area is 26 feet by 16 feet then you are over the 30m^2 limit and you will have to build it to building regs which will complicate things quite a bit.

That is an unusual arrangement! To me, it appears that the lintel is only bearing on the brickwork on the left hand side and on the brackets. Are the brackets the ends of the floor joists which go all the way though the wall? If so it would make replacement very difficult.

If the trifold doors you mention are the ones which B&Q sell then bear in mind that they have quite a thick frame thus the actual glazed area will be quite a bit less than the whole 2400x2100 as a good chunk of it will be frame. Or does one have to include frame in the 25%?

Depends if you want to be able to easily fix stuff to the wall. Aerated can be a PITA to fix cabinets etc to if this extension was to be used as a kitchen for example. Aerated blocks are easier to handle as they are lighter and also offer some insulation meaning you nees less cavity insulation.

Beware that most facing bricks only have one 'face' meaning you could only cut one slip per brick rather than two. This means the 400 bricks would cost £200. For the sake of £100 I would just buy the slips and be done with it.

Ok, so I am inserting a course of bricks between a new lintel and the existing wall above (supported by acrows). Putting mortar on the lintel and then beding the bricks in is easy enough but I'm having difficulty filling the joint between the tops of the new bricks and the bottom of the...