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Sounds like your landlord's 'trying it on'. Are you sure it's not 700 just to sand & re-seal the whole floor ? Like Big-All says his insurance should cover it. Paquet floors & Oak worktops !?! Not exactly the most ideal rental property materials....... Like Stan Boardman said....."They...

oh.....only just noticed that picture you posted isn't yours !? ........just be aware my comments were referring to that photo...... :?

Who ? Rigsby ? Mum's the word :wink:

Hi Gareth, Yes.....Mike's fine ! They are Oak worktops. They have been treated....probably only at installation stage by the sounds of it. If water and an abrasive pad has resulted in two tones of colour to the wood, then they're likely to only have been oiled initially. If it was me, I...

Hi Anobium, I'm not a dry rot expert by any means, but could those (hopefully) spider's webs not be dry rot hyphae ? I'm genuinely interested....difficult to tell from the photos.....I guess sending a sample for analysis would be the best thing to do.....in my experience....dry rot shouldn't...

Hi Gareth, What wood is the worktop made from ? Most marks if caught quickly can be removed by very careful sanding & re-oiling / sealing. Oak is particularly susceptible, by it's nature and due to it's high tannic acid content, to forming nasty dark stains (iron tannate) when it comes...

Hi there, I've just recently had to make good the existing joinery & paint white a complete hallway and landing.....skirting/doors/balustrade.....that was dark brown varnished.....horrendous. Am a joiner by trade, but invariably am called on to paint (post job). I achieved good results...

:shock: By jove, he's right you know ! But, not to be attempted by the faint-hearted ! :lol:

Hi twm, For a good 4 page doc on joining & fixing wooden wortops, plus answers to your other questions.....visit : http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/worktops/worktop_installation_1.htm For a good explanation of using a router & worktop jig......visit ...

I would go so far as to say that's a bargain....

City & Guild's rule of thumb is.....990mm from bottom of door to centre of the lever normally......however, if it's on a panelled door with a middle rail, locks/latches are normally positioned in the centre of that rail's width.....

Hi BR, I picked up a good quality unglazed hardwood Pattern 10 external door for £67 from Singer Doors in Walthamstow (I live in Greenwich so 20 mins in the car/van) http://www.singerdoors.co.uk/ You'll be able to get frosted double laminate cut to size fairly cheaply from Lee Green...

Apologys Oilman.....what I mean't was re: Tung Oil, is having wiped off the excess, it takes at least a day to sink into the wood...I'm sure it does takes weeks to dry, if it ever really does.

.....at risk of throwing the cat amongst the pigeons, personally I think Danish Oil looks great on Oak worktops. It is in reality a very dilute, oily, amber-coloured varnish designed to be applied and wiped off while still wet. The result is a very thin film that offers little in the way of...

Hi Helen, Take a sharp craft knife and carefully score the paint line between frame and window (or, where it's been painted shut), then work the blade of a wide paint scraper (or, better still, a flexible filling knife) into the painted shut line and carefully try to work it free, taking care...

http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/worktops/worktop_installation_1.htm 4 page doc, with everything you need to know (in my opinion) :)

Hi Jimbo, You can buy new pre-made door frames, but you'll have to check the width and thickness of your current frame jambs carefully to find a match. Most modern external door frames that you can buy now are made of smaller dimensioned timber than they used to make 'em of. Last week I...

http://www.raygirling.com/wtjig.htm

http://www.wincareang.co.uk/ Yes, using the method and products above. P.S. I have nothing to do with 'Window Care Systems', but use their products frequently to conserve existing joinery. As Tony the Frosties tiger says............It's "grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat " !

......and a biscuit jointer and biscuits.....is useful to keep the joining worktops laterally (and literally !) flush (from a horizontal perspective). Biscuits prevent them from twisting. .....You can join your tops without, but will have to be very careful & thorough in keeping them from...