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What are peoples' feelings towards the B+Q own brand power tools - Performance? Their 14.4v impact driver, with batteries is £50...

[/url] That is exactly what I was thinking. However, you can't deny that the impact driver can allow you to work quickly, without having to pre-drill pilot holes. My original intention was to pre drill pilot holes and screw into them; even with an impact driver, this may still be...

Wow. I was used to using the cheapo drills from Argos. As an example I have an mains drill, black and decker which cost me around £50 from Argos. When I got the Bosch (which I paid around £400), it oozed quality and its ability to cut through brick and concrete, like a hot knife through butter...

Yep. For drilling I hate hex chucks as it means I have to buy a whole new set of drill bits. What I could do is get the Site SMB600 for £40. Use this drill to drive in the tips of the big screws. Then to drive the deeper part of the screws (which requires more torque), I switch to the...

I have to say that I'm not a fan of the hex drills.

In that case my most realistic option is to initially screw the big screws using the drill driver (whichever one I decide to buy) and drill the deeper part of the screw using my Bosch 24V drill (which I've just checked and it does have variable speed). The only problem is that the Bosch is heavy...

I only need to drill holes into wood, though. This drill will never be used for drilling into walls. For hammer drill, I have a Bosch SDS drill. Cost is definitely an issue here. Are lithium ion batteries the way to go are NiCd batteries ok? My problem is that my current NiCd batteried...

It is indeed DIY. 110mm of the screw will be threaded through a hole in a piece of timber, while 70mm will be screwed into another piece of timber, which shall hold the 2 peices of timber, together. The problem with an impact driver is the cost. I don't particularly want to spend £100...

TBH, I am trying to spend as little as possible. The impact driver you are talking about above is quite pricey for my liking. The 180mm screws will only be going to a depth of about 70mm into the timber (the remaining space will have been pre-drilled, so the screwer will merely slot in)...

I need some advice. I shall be doing some woodwork, drilling some holes through 100mm blocks of timber and screwing these into other pieces of timber. I shall also be driving screws of size 6x180mm into pieces of timber. In summary I'm looking for a drill/driver which can drill timber...

:) Once I've fitted the motor and everything is working fine, I shall have a very big smile. :wink: Once again, thanks for your help gents.

LOL. I'm not easily convinced, though if replacing the motor solves the problem, I will be...convinced.

Will do.

Yeah, I don't particularly want to open up the timer and rewire that, as that would be very time consuming. If the motor comes pre-wired, cutting the cable of the old motor and using a junction box to connect the cable of the new motor seems the easiest way to fix things up. Anyway gents...

First remove the old motor. (Should take 30 seconds). Then open up the old motor see how it is wired (take photo if necessary). Remove wires from old motor. Open up new motor. Connect the wires, exactly as in the previous motor. Fit new motor onto the valve. Or is it more complicated...

Given the above, it seems the simplest thing for me to do is to buy an identical replacement (about £23). Fit it. And see what happens. If this fixes the problem then great. If not, I call out an engineer (as the problem could be more tricky to ascertain). Sound good?

The room stat is "clicking" fine. It also lights up, as normal, when the timer is powered up. If there is no feedback from the motor valve to the boiler, then it can't be the motor valve. If however, there is feedback from the motor valve to the boilder, this would explain why the boiler...

I don't seem to have this wiring centre. What I have is the time-switch/programmer, which is where all the cables lead to. I have posted a video to show you what I have: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kiSgBlpDB8 I can take readings by stripping a little bit of the wire sheath that...

Hi, This is what I have at the moment: Do I open up the black box (this is where all the wiring goes into)?

And do I have to open up the motorised valve to check whether the wires are live or not?