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Latex screed is fine, although I prefer an acrylic screed, which should be available from any flooring supplier. The floor should be clean and de-grease if necessary. Then apply the screed with a steel trowel held down to the floor so that the screed is scraped on, which applies a very thin...

ask your supplier, you should be able to get an extrusion specifically for the tiles you choose, something that is the same thickness and will protect the edge. I would theink the edge will have to be protected. Is there a reason for the trap being at the door? If not then maybe you could...

Hi Andy, the standard proceedure is to fit the units, then tile up to them. It saves money on tiles you'll never see and saves you having to protect the floor while your fitting the units ( from dropped hammers and screws trapped on the underside of the unit as you drag it across the floor...

Hi Blue, Latex screed is an underlay and isn't supposed to take foot traffic. If you don't expect to walk over the hearth much you might get away with it. Mix it to a creamy consistency and pour it in, it will require a bit of trowelling. Once poured in if you take a plant atomiser spray and...

If there is dampness rising through the subfloor then the last thing you should lay is sheet vinyl as it will completely seal the surface and trap the dampness, which will build up over time and destroy the adhesive bond. The only option if you must use sheet vinyl is to install a proper...

Hi Christine, Definitely don't use laminate flooring, it is very unstable and the joints open up and rise when they get wet. If you really want a timber floor then lay 4mm or 6mm construction grade plywood onto your existing floor, and then lay your new timber floor on top. You will still...

Hi ant, You must line the timber floor before laying the ceramic tiles. Cheapest, simplest, option is: 1. Shutter off a neat square in front of your door, taking in the area that the door sweeps over. 2. Latex screed the concrete subfloor with a 7mm wash screed to bring level with your...

Hi tg, can't really advise you re putting down a new subfloor, better ask a joiner, but once done its back to the original link you posted. There will always be some movement at the timber/concrete junction. It might be that it is so slight that it won't be a problem (so long as you make sure...

Hi Scotch, What kind of Amtico are you planning to lay? As far as preparation is concerned, if the floor is rough then apply a coat of latex screed, I prefer latex but Amtico recommend the water based stuff which finds its own level. Certainly it would be easier to fit the toilet pan, then...

Hi Bill, It sounds like your trying to use a carpet cover strip, which takes no. 6/8 size screws, which are not really long enough to reach down and fix to the floor. If there is a flooring supplier near you then a good solution is Morley Metals 'Z Frame'. This is a metal trim which has a...

Hi, Our garage is constructed of a single course of bricks and dampness and mould is a problem inside. When we moved here the interior was already painted so I re-painted it a few years ago with an anti-condensation paint inside; and a Leyland exterior paint outside (which claimed to keep out...

Hi, that previous post refers to preparation for ceramic tiles, which can't take movement in the subfloor below. The way you describe it it sounds like there isn't much movement at the timber/concrete junction and if your intending to lay a flexible floor like cushioned vinyl or a timber floor...

Hi, Laminate is not water resistant and if there is any kind of steady leak in the kitchen, from a fridge etc. ( or in my case were the dog's bowl was usually placed :( ) then the water will penetrate and cause the joint to gap and tent up at the edges. It does settle down again when the water...

Hi Borris, If the floor is sound and fairly level then the 4mm plywood is fine, and its easier to work with. If there are a lot of gaps between the boards (i.e. the plumbers and central heating engineers have lifted them!), and if theres a lot of cupping and ridging in the boards, then 6mm...

Hi Borris, marine Plywood is a specialist material and over the top for your specification. All you need is a construction/exterior grade, wbp plywood, which is available from any builder's merchant, better still, flooring supplier. It is available in 4mm and 6mm thickness and the 4mm is...

Hi reg, Those are some instructions :) First I would definitely apply a latex screed. parquet flooring needs a good, solid subfloor to lay on...and also the performance of the adhesive may be affected by contact with the old adhesive (parquet/wood flooring is unstable, it can expand and...

Hi Reg, You definitely should lift the old tiles, but there's no need to chisel up the old adhesive. Once the tiles are lifted just apply a thin coat of latex screed to create a clean, dust free surface for the parquet floor. The screed will also seal off the old adhesive to stop it reacting...

Hi, I take it we're talking about ceramic tiles here? I'm not a ceramic tiler but as far as I know the only option is to cut some tiles into narrow strips which are narrow enought to contour around the curve of the stair riser. Cut the strips evenly to the same width to achieve a neat...

Hi, I think you'll find the standard laminate underlays have excellent insulating properties. There are some on the market which have a silver foil backing if you want. If your looking for more than that then I would suggest the acoustic fibre board panels which are sold in most of the big...

Hi, What are you laying on top of the old tiles? I would thoroughly check the floor to make sure they are sound and that any loose tiles are removed; if the old ceramic tiles have a glazed or polished / very smooth surface then I would lift them regardless. If the tiles are being left then...