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Bonding and browning are no good in a bathroom with all the moisture, skim isnt ideal to tile onto and would need tanking where the shower / bath is. render is your best bet, it's the best thing to tile onto too.

It would be unlikely that it needs rebuilding, the source of water ingress needs to be determined, resolved and the wall left to dry out.

If you did skim it there would be no point in it being there, You can skim the walls and feather out the edge where you want the skim to end, not a big deal really as you can use a little less addy on the top of the top row of tiles to take out any difference.

A picture may help to give a better answer but if the render is cracked and blown / loose it may be better to remove.

use the 50mm battens as theres more room for when you have two edges of board on the batten 3" or 4" screws, size ten into red plugs give a really strong fix or use tapcons. Fix at 600mm / 2' intervals. If you pack out on your fixings to true the wall up I always apply expanding foam behind the...

Work around the hole with the SDS drill and a chisel bit.

Is the pebble dash in good condition, are there any cracks, is it blown? Is there a chimney on the wall? Is the roof in good condition over the top of the wall? at what height are the damp spots? It could be condensation or it could be ingress of water from somewhere. More investigation is needed.

rake it out and use jointing compound or easy fill, if it still comes back tape it with paper tape and feather out. Did you scrim the original crack before you skimmed?

2xs1 tanalised would be fine (roofing batten) skim on board is fine to paint in up to 2 weeks and gives a much more durable finish than tape and fill. Also is the chimney vented from the rooms, as asked above. What is the source of the condensation?

Another method is to dab plasterboard in the gap flush to the plaster and then gripfill or similar the skirting on presuming it covers the bottom of where the plaster ends.

Are you sure its not wall paper?

If it's been stored in cold and damp and it was off it would heat up like mad when mixed and go off like a rocket.

Any pictures?

The metal lath will reinforce the repair, dont use PVA outside, use an SBR slurry. The secion of damaged render thats loose probably wants hacking off and replacing.

[/url] What chemicals do you use? How do you apply them?

Id use the board addy myself, I have done a fair bit in my own house with the foam and it would push the board away from the wall if the timing wasnt spot on. I regret using it now.

If its a cavity wall there may be no signs of cracking internally.

How old is the property and whats its construction?

If you have a painted on membrane, which could well be bitumen, i think it would be quite easy to break through it with the corner of a trowel when dabbing.

No problem. Good luck. Theres a thanks button if it means that much to you :P