Search results

He does, I'm curious as to why he states it's better though, personally I hate the stuff, it's cheap and nasty and walls sound terrible if you bump them. It's not as strong either, but each to their own.

As you have 5mm to make up I would just extrude two 10mm deep beads the continual length. I dunno why it's pink, you can use grip fill solvent free if you like of any other grab adhesive. They do set hard yes. Dont PVA, theres no need.

If the bond does fail, what will happen at the join above? Haha, I dont need convincing, I know what I would and wouldn't do, If your happy to do it another way then go for it :)

Yeah that stuff, I wouldn't risk the board addy tbh.

I'd use something like solvent free pink grip, you can blob it out and it doesnt sag and run like the solvent based stuff, I have never tried it but should imagine board addy would fail on timber.

If the two separate plasterboards are on two separate timbers you can bet your bottom dollar that the line will always crack as the two timbers will expand and contract slightly different.

He probably damaged the membrane while applying dabs, it's gonna have to come off I'm afraid.

I would also recommend 9mm OSB over battens before board, makes the wall really strong, on the last refurbs i have done this is what i Did on every stud and battened wall, glues and screwed OSB over 400mm centered studs / battens and plasterboard over top, very strong and the OSB is only about...

Double up with packers and bond the board to the beam with adhesive.

I cant see how you can fit damaged coving so I dont see how you can proceed.

Your power cable cannot run like that, you have put it out of a "prescribed zone"

If you can afford the space you can build a stud wall in front out of CLS. Tip for battening, once all your battens are fixed and packed out true and plumb you can put expanding foam behind to really firm them up.

Hire a nail gun and a chow saw, although these are very dangerous tools.

you could of course get packers and pack the batten off of the wall the required amount, if you want it to look 100% better you'll probably need packers anyway as I would be surprised if your wall was flat, plumb and true.

It will coast about the same as a second hand car.

Personally I would counter batten the ceiling it the joists are out to get it level and flat. I would also counter batten the walls too, pack them out and put OSB over top followed by plasterboard.

yeah, use mesh tape in the taper and paper tape along the but edge.

Use 12.5mm boards, less likely to sag.

Ill try and look for it at some point soon although theres prob loads and loads on youtube as alastairreid has pointed towards.

Theres a DVD on venetian plastering, its applied really thin on top of plaster.