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Erm, yes, you can use a class one for gas, but not the other way around. that looks alright from the pic, just jack the lintol up and pack above and tidy it up a bit. a gas fire would often be fitted into a class one opening, and a Corgy reg fitter will/would sort any tecky bits out when he...

class A fire opening, 3 strechers wide, 1 1/2 deep, 12 courses high. or if you wish 675mm wide, 325 deep, 900 high. this large opening is to allow a fitter to put in a fire back and dolly up behind with weak mix and hardcore. that's all a bit old fashioned now I suppose. The flue should be...

hi, hoo (who?) It sounds like the air brick originally had a clay sleve to vent through to under the floor, (that would explain the mortar which would have been round the liner not a brick) there would not be any point in venting the cavity as it was designed to be a static air pocket and...

Yes go for it. If the bricks you are building on top of are modern post metric they may not (will not) match in courses and/or perps, but if it's just a few course they may work out, try them against the existing and see what's what. It depends on how good it needs to look facework wise. The...

Save yourself some grief and money, and do it right first time mate. :wink:

Hi, OK, they are victorian wire cuts. (The groove you see is made by something becoming attached to the wire as it was drawn through the slab of clay) They would not be regarded as engineering bricks, rather classed as a 'fletton' or common house brick. They are quite resistant to water...

It could be a red rubber (a brick made for 'rubbing' to shape on a rubbing table, now only made for special refurbs) Or almost anything, there are at least 2500 different brick types in common (pun) use. :lol:

Hi, solo, I am also self employed, If things go on the way they are, I might have to start working mornings too!

Oh, Ok Jimmy, I didn't think of a double being a prefab. doesn't the kit come with any suggestions about the base construction? I would think you still need a concrete base rather than just slabs on drylean. That would be ok for a wooden garden shed for example, but a DG sounds like you...

Ok, Larco, So unless you post piccys, lets assume a simple bay window, not on the front elevation. When it is out and the roof bit over etc you will have an opening with the shape of the bay window below in brick, If this is correct then you will need to rip out this brickwork and put in a...

Most of what is written above is true, however being out in the fresh air is probably going to prevent any inhilation. and it is true you do need a mask that is rated down to 3 microns, (ie. up to the job) I worked in the trade when asbestos was in common use and the chippies used to saw it up...

Hi, Jimmy, I don't understand what you are proposing to do here. If you want to build a double garage then it needs to be on a resonably substantial concrete base at least. Dig out about one foot all round bigger than the garage is going to be, and the ground will dictate how deep, but as an...

Don't 'brush' a drymix in, you need to point it in, if you brush it in it will not be any good.

What? green with blue hair?? I know that *******, he trashed my trees last year..

Look it up mate there's sure to be plenty on founds in the bulk.

Hi, gary, I think I'll just put my twopennorth in. I agree with Nose and Shyt, Jo is a prat, NO, NO, I didn't mean to say that, I meant to say don't pay up front, if your fellow needs materials , and you want him to start then offer to pay for them to the delivery man.

Hi, nickobelic, First things first, get 3 other quotes, at least two of them from neighbours who have had some work done and were satisfied. give each builder the same speck and instructions on what to quote for and take notes on what is said and confirm all verbals by letter. also check the...

We are not talking about simple capillary suction here. And anyway it doesn't stop when saturated, put a LBC in an inch of water and it will fill up and respire out of the top surface contiuing until the bucket is empty. I said if the wind is forcing the rain against the wall. So stop talking...

Garages do leak, that's why everything goes rusty in em. And 'modern' bricks aren't any different to old fashoned ones, they've been made the same way (and from the same materials) for 5000 years, only engineering types can be considered waterproof.

Now now boys tut tut, put Jo down. Yes, when the rain is driving against brickwork, it gets saturated with water, (eventually) and for every drop forced into the brick by the wind, a drop has to come out inside and run down to the DPC tray and weep holes. Also for the odd occasion where...