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Correct, i work for a body shop and our plates are supplied by a local motor factor every time. As for havin' their logo on the bottom, utter tosh mate!

I thought the Rover k series engine 1.4/1.6 suffered head gasget failure?? Do a bit of research first. :wink:

Cant see how a duff O2 sensor would stop it from starting, make it run rich maybe but it should still run. :? BTW Libby, did you used to frequent the Ford Probe forums a while back??

Try talking to these guys, they have helped my son in law with his Polo in the past. :wink: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=9

Ah, silicon as apposed to rubber Richard, how long do they last?? :)

I hate to say it Sally, but you will need to visit a main dealer or at least a technician who can plug in a reader and read you're cars fault codes, this should tell you exactly where the prob lies, you can then sort out a mech/tech to remedy the fault. Good luck.

Exactly my line of thought :wink:

This is assuming that all vents, especially the ones usually located behind rear bumpers are free from debris and not blocked, prob more so on hatchback/estate cars :wink:

So very true my Scottish friend, i would have assumed he had already done this, in our case the mechanism had seized solid, but saying that, the car had had a collision on the rear quater which was quite hard :shock:

Dont let anyome tell ya motoring was ever cheap! :wink:

Here are a couple pics from my Daughters 2001 Lupo, sorry the pics are grainy, looks like the cubby hole under the head unit may have to come out first, not to sure, but the head unit deffo looks like it should come out on its own although there are no obvious holes for the metal pins to be...

Really!! :shock: :wink:

Never fail my MOT and mine are dark on the rear and lighter on the front :wink:

Agree with ^neo^ above, we had a Peugeot 106 or 205 in, cant remember, anyway the owner had not touched the rear brakes in quite a while, a workmate of mine had to literally smash the drums till they shattered with a sledge hammer, now thats brute force!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shock: and the only way...

I've experienced this on other cars and can almost certainally say its the heater resistor, could be a square plastic box affair with 4-6 pins in it or it could be a flat plate with a printed circuit, thay are normally found on the blower motor or adjascent to it :wink:

Moistutre/dust particles will do the trick. I've had numerous autos in my 30+ yrs of driving and i know as well as the next chap that ATF is the life blood of an auto and as most box's work on oil pressure its good to change it at the req intervals :wink: Libby Lou Lou, i have a funny feelin'...

Agree with the above post. Also driving around with no dipstick has allowed the ATF to become contaminated, this needs draining and refilling with the correct grade and quantity.

I had a Ford last year and i reset mine when cold, to be honest, i'm not sure that it really matters because the ecu will have to relearn a lot of its settings once you go for a drive, during the drive the car may seem a bit different untill it settles down. Another tip when disconnecting the...

And still the burnt out wreck smells of milk :lol: :lol: :lol:

I could have wrote that myself, that is so very,very true. :wink: