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You're not going to save any cash for about 20+years if you change. It'd be a pointless exercise overall. Add the price of a boiler+install costs if you're not doing it yourself, against a maybe 5% reduction in annual fuel savings.

Howdy all. I've just had planning though for a garage build :) I'm now trying to find a roofer to do it for me. Its a timber framed garge, so needs felt/battens etc. Anyone know anyone decent in the area? Cheers.

I've just ordered a pair of these.... http://www.bixecotech.co.uk/cp961.html Gone for 12 and 15lpm inserts, with with one on each feed i'll hopefully get something useable but still powerful.

Nothing, however I removed the old 15mm pipework that came off the incoming as part of it was lead. Made sense to do it all in 22mm copper, I'd expected an uplift in flow rate, just not to what it is! Tomorrow i'm off to get an adjustable flow valve and have a play.

It'd be hard to argue that a transformer is something a power circuit needs? So if you've got transformers you need 1.5?

That makes sense. I've too much pressure and flow for sinks/basins. Once I get round to sorting bathrooms I'll put much lower ones in there, also fed from smaller pipework.

It'd have to be a pretty big coil in a pretty big store to give me the performance to match the flow rate! 22lpm should be very very doable. I'll have a play to see what suits.

I do understand, I just used it in the wrong context. I'm not making claims, just asking questions. Thanks for the info on the flow regulators, I'll give them a whirl. Which ones did you go for, and on what?

Well call it what makes you happy, I use the term static as only one tap was open. One cold tap open in the bath, a 10ltr bucket fills in 10seconds, give or take a bit of water. Obviously its a bit of an issue!

I'll get the same results as an unvented cylinder with the way the boiler is designed.

apparently quite easy. I was getting 40lpm with old 15mm copper. Its just where I live, a few factors.

Thats the good thing about assumption! I didn't have mains pressure hot water before, infact I didn't have any hot water :) I know I need to reduce the flow through the coil as the flow is demanding too much. I've got a scale, well lime filter on the incoming main.

I need to check my notes from when I measured it, I think it was about 5bar.

After upgrading my house pipework to 22mm I'm suffering from too much flow. About 60lpm static. The niggle with this is that the heating coil in my boiler can't keep up. It does a good job trying though. I'm thinking of getting some flow limiter valves fitted to the shower of about 18lpm...

Yes, looks like it but the 'back end' protection is in the boiler. Its also selectable on/off which is dangerous. I did think the same as I asked the question. Its to do with the hot water coil inside, its a simpler way of providing protection against 'shock cooling' all round against water...

It is piped as per the factory diagram..... The esbe valves are suppose to be much more efficient than a zone valve, They do give a compensated output as they are at the minute, I've not said they don't, they're constantly adjusted by the boiler, there's zero operational issues with...

Hi Yes, its actually got 3 but I've not fitted the 3rd zone yet.

The valves are right after the pumps, forgive the mess in the pics, I've got to take down the wooden frame and remove the old pipes still! I put the valves in, incase I wasn't happy with how the pumps work on auto, however the boiler seems too smart for its own good with the ESBE valve...

Hi System is balanced, heats up very equally. The room stat is at one end of a corridor, a radiator with TRV at the other. TRV is set a few 'rings' below max. The house has 2 circuits at the minute. Both are 100% separate with flow and returns going back to the boiler, both off ESBE...

I'm not 100% sold on the auto aspects to be honest. I think If I turn the valves up to 0.5 bar then set the pumps to auto mode that suits it should give me the best of both worlds. Just considering all options really.