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kif the wiring is correct, and the pump overun hasn't STUCK then as seco said about 10mins... until water temp is below about 60 degree s C!

seco... i have been told before though and seen that clean water (in the tank/when first draining a system) can be a false sign..... sludge can hide :lol: If I were from essex I'd love to be your plumbers mate!! :) Top man!

Seco, I have to admit: you are tops.... i've learned from this post :) Top plumber. The only thing left is... the OP has said the water looks clean?!! :?

:oops: sorry! i was thinking the OP measnt with the system turned completely off!!! :lol: still not sure why the DV would be flickering over though like that!...

yes but the pump would not be on if the system was cold surely? when the OP said cold, i pressumed he meant with the system turned off!! why would the diverter valve flickering be caused by sludge also?!! seems weird as the OP said the water looked fine!...

I agree it could be a sludged up system (probably in or around the tee piece where the cold feed joins the system) but this pumping over would not happen with the system cold!! what type of diverter valve do you have/what make?

ok so an infra red for rad surface temps and clamp on theremom's for rad pipe temps! hmmmmmm any recommendations?? :)

is not the coil holed then! - is weird, if this is happening when cold - then am not sure why!..... as seco said maybe a blockage?..

sounds like a holed coil in the hot water cylinder - is the water coming over the vent poipe (u-shaped pipe) or up through the cold feed inside the header tank??

if when cold, your thinking pinholed calorifier ??!!! i thought that but he said from the vent not the feed so ruled it out..... ?

how long has the problem been like this for?? boiler stats if failed, even if the setting is low can STICK in the ON position and cause the water to get to boiling point and thus be ejected from the vent pipe - and the noise is usually causes because most vent pipes are not clipped too well!!!...

is the water that is coming out the the crooked pipe v v hot (and steaming) - is it very noisy and then quiet and then noisy again .... could be boiler stat has stuck (and boiler has no overheat stat to cut out/put boiler to lockout)... air in rads could be caused by fresh air continuously...

What type of thermometer/types would you recommend for testing rad surface temps (for cold spots from sludge build up, etc), pipe temps (fofr balancing purposes/to test for sludge etc) and for checking pipe temps to see if stats are operating correctly??

Ha! I like that one! No basically though I had one a while ago which took ages to stabilize and reach a temp reading, and then it kept flickering - so I wasn't sure if it was even very accuarte!!! Any recommendations would be great??

Does anyone have a good / quick response-time digi probe thermometer, for finding cold spots in radiators, balancing rads, testing if stat are cutting out at correct set temps, etc?? Are there any good ones out there? I am guessing a good one is not cheap?

an external expansion vessel (for an unvented hot water cylinder). what's the diff? they still both can be re-charged... sorry if i sound stupid! :oops:

Quick q but probably embarrassing! - do you need to drain down to re-charge an expansion vessel? I know it's probably stupid but want to be sure... the water can't get out (unless the diaphragm has split though can it)? :oops:

the pipe bungs are the ones i have but water poured out and i got scared!!!! haha maybe i didnt have them in tight enough but i thought i did. i'll try the 5p trick and the bungs again. how much did you pay? that drain valve clamp looks good.... will try and buy one.

where can i get one of those self cutting drain tools from? sounds good to me... I tried the 5p in the trv on the pin but the head wouldn't screw on again afterwards. and the bungs i tried them ages ago and water came pouring out of the valve / pipe so i pacicked!! i bought drayton rubber...

sorry i am a little confused... i am not sure the 5 pence trick will work, i have heard about it though, but the bunging the system trick also had fault i believe. how do i make a drain point in the pipework if the system is full? if i am to shut off both rads, drain the valve and insert my...