Search results

If you strip the felt back then you may be able to assess whether just a few boards need changing or the lot. Personally I'd change the lot because it would be better than having to re-felt again in the near future because some boards were 'slightly rotten' but you didn't notice. However...

Usually in cases like this it is as follows... The bend/warp in the wood is due to a tooling problem and therefore it is a manufacturing issue which causes the goods to be 'inherently defective' (legal terminology sort of phrase) - so it's not your fault. However, the only recourse you are...

It's a good idea to use a geo-textile sheet as a stabiliser, without it you can find (as you suspected) that things begin to sink...

If you are laying stepping stones then I'd suggest that you use MOT/DtP (otherwise known as crusher run which is a combination of various sizes of gravel from about 40mm down to dust) to create a 'bed' or 'sub-base' of approx 75 mm thick below where each stepping stone is going. You should also...

DPM may not be UV stabilised in which case it could crack and leak again... although how much sun do we get in this country??? If it is a temporary measure then it may not matter too much.

Personally I'd never lay slabs on top of soil... this is a recipe for future problems due to ground heave etc. Digging out, 75mm of MOT/DtP1 fully compacted (if foot traffic only) as the sub-base with a solid mortar bed for the slabs should be what you are looking at for any patio area. Or...

The best way to approach this is to give your local BC Officer a quick call to check so that it results in the job being fully compliant. Fire regs will be involved and you will need mains powered, linked and battery backed smoke alarms top and bottom of your stairwell, fire door at the top...

Personally I wouldn't repoint using a dry mix and I'm sure any customer of mine wouldn't want to see this being done. Use a 'just wet enough' mix of mortar so it clumps together when you squeeze it in your hand but not wet enough to stain the faces of the slabs. Some info about pointing...

Oops - I forgot to mention the strapping interval and stuff :oops: Thanks for clarifying the bits I missed woody!

100x75 will be fine, and yes you need to lay up a bed of mortar for the wall plate to sit on and achieve your level. If you are using more than 1 length of timber (i.e. on the 7m walls) then use a halving joint between the two. And use this on the corners too. Don't forget you have to...

150 mm end lap is usual on a lintel.

Strictly speaking there should definitely be some concrete down at the bottom of the post - I wouldn't trust compacted soil/hardcore alone to do the job in keeping the post upright/plumb. There may be other ways of fixing this problem (such as only moving the hinge if there was enough...

Convention is that you put screws into the 'channels' so that the heads are less visible. Also don't go too close to the edge otherwise you may split the wood especially towards the deck board ends. Generally speaking I put the screws 2 'channels' in which equates to about 25mm from the...

You really want to brace it in both planes, and the less lateral force being applied to the post (i.e. by the gate) the better, at least whilst the concrete sets.

Bad? Generally not recommended on thermolite (or so my regular plasterer/rendering bloke tells me). Possibly this is why you have encountered the failure of your rendering. Over to the guys who actually do these jobs instead of me who just gets somebody else to do them...

I'll leave the in depth replies to some of the other trade guys on here, but if you do a search on the forum you should get some good background info about scratch coats, waterproofing agents, etc.

Our local BC has no objections to render being applied to solid dense or cellular dense concrete blocks, but it wouldn't be a good idea to have thermolite/celcon/durox blocks rendered because I think they would be subject to very high suction which could affect the end result. Some of the...

If you don't mind losing a bit of room space, you could construct a studded wall close to the existing one. This is then filled with insulation (rockwool flexislabs or similar). The new studding should not contact the existing wall, the top plate and the sole plate should be 25 mm away...

I once worked at a house that had a pole set up in the main bedroom... I didn't raise the topic with the customer when she returned to the house, maybe I should have?

Glad you found the cause, all you need to do now is apply a remedy. You will probably have to remove the gate from the post before doing some digging and concrete pouring. Make sure the post is absolutely plumb before you pour any concrete and add a couple of temporary diagonal braces to the...