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Yep :D

I get the sand for my plasterer from a local aggregate supplier. It is between building sand and sharp sand, called plastering sand. That is what we use as he prefers it

I have just done a similar type of job last week. By law you will need Building Regs. I would recommend a structural engineer as well, who will do the calcs for you. Beyond that i would reccommend you get a builder in.

The render coat is in replacement of the hardwall. He will put a skim coat on top of the render. This is how your walls would have originally been done

Ok. First look at the keeps situated on the frame. They should have either a screw or allen key. This should adjust the keep to make the lock tighter or looser to the frame. Second look at the lock. You may have a pin, in the centre is an allen key. The pin is coencentric, again turning this...

Glass is a very good conducter of heat. The only reason that a double glazed unit is more than twice as efficent is the air that is trapped between the two panes. Air is a poor conducter of heat. Simply replacing a standard pane with 'k' glass will not do much to improve the heat loss.

You may be able to do this yourself. Does the lock have any manufacturer's name on it. If so i might be able to help you

As long as the earth at the bottom of your trench is firm and compacted there is no need to hardcore it. The BCO should inspect it before you pour any concrete, if you have building regs.

Is there a wall above and what is that wall. Partition or masonry?

You will have to remove and fit new joists to accomodate and support the new loft hatch and trimback the plasterboard. Do you have a particular loft hatch in mind?

3.5 x 38mm p/board screws at 2oomm entres should do the job

The windows should be fitted to the back of the external skin. I.E. the back of the frame is flush with the inside of the brick. Presumably you have a cavity closer which should bridge the gap.

My Dad left home when i was 14 and is now like an Uncle i rarely see or speak to. My Mum died over 6 years ago and never got to see my 2 kids She Was 56. My son was born 3 weeks after she died. Yes Toffee it would be nice for someone to come round, toolbox in hand and do all those little jobs...

Yes you need the original key to take out the cylinder. One way (and not nice) is to drill out the cylinder. I have done this a few times and it can take about an hour and several drill bits. A locksmith should be able to do this for you.

Ultimately the homeowner is responsible for getting Building Regulations, but you should warn them that they are required. I have done a couple of jobs where the customer did not want a certificate. I put that in writing on my quotation.

The hinge needs to be at least half the depth of the sash. So if you have a side hung sash with 12" openers, you could use them on a sash no more than 24" deep. Side hung friction stays have a nylon lifter situated on the hinge helping to lift the sash as you close it towards the frame

Check the seal between the opening vents and the frame. To test open the vent slightly and insert a piece of paper. When shut the paper should be quite hard to remove. It may just be that the openers need adjusting. I am assuming these are outward opening casements.

I have always fitted a small bracket with a rubber end to support the glass units as these often slip down. you will need to find out if the units are glazed from the top with a compression bead or wedged rom underneath to move them. Units with condensation will need replacing with toughened glass.

Have the panels slipped down the roof ? Is their consendation between the panes ? I don't want to put down the person who gave you the advice but it sounds like you need to contact someone with more experience of this.

A conservatory without a door to the existing building will be classed as an extension and therefore will require relevant planning and building regs