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As previous post by Igorian, Files are not deleted from the computer, only the "flag" or "pointer" that directs the operating system to the specific location on the hard drive that holds the information. ie the information that you want deleted. The "flag" is deleted, but the information...

Simply deleting the files won't erase them. They are still on the drive, and can be read. The old data has to be overwritten, there is software available but at this moment can't recall its name. An internet search should turn something up.

It's expensive ! But since you've got some, use it. It will hide more than lining paper alone. You can also apply another layer of lining paper over the top of it. (from same manufacturer "fibreline"). I would recommend the additional layer on top, applied perpendicular to wall rock paper...

As mentioned, EPDM sheet. Easy to install, it's just glued (with special adhesive) to the wood. Trim pieces are used at the edges, but it is possible, depending on the style of the edge of the roof, to make something yourself that would do the job. You mention gaps between the wood...

Similar problem once, same make different model. Turned out it was intermittent fault with one of the temperature probes. Only a few quid each from ebay at the time.

Have you tried a scan with "Spybot - Search & Destroy" ? It's usually quite good at getting rid of trojans and the like. http://www.safer-networking.org/en/download/index.html

The tape is very easy to fit, just take you time when forming it along the pipes. You use a special tape to fix it onto the pipes, similar to a fabric tape but stronger. You could use an alternative tape as long as it is strong, wouldn't think pvc tape would do, something like duck tape may do...

Do an internet search to see if the glass wool type product can be bought at subsidised prices. Energy companies sometimes offer this, as well as B&Q on ocassion. £3.00 (ish)for a 1200mm wide roll is not unheard of.

Well done for highlighting the dodgy builder. More people should do that. And No, there is no reason to inspect someones work as they go along, They should be doing it right in the first place!

Your only connecting them with the tape to prove/disprove the fault. It's not meant to be long term. That would mean the heating on all the time. With the gas prices the bills would sky rocket. Since you have done so, and identified the problem, and the solution, there is no longer any...

On the back of the timer there should be a connection diagram. Check yours to see if there is one. Before you start messing about with stuff switch off the power to the boiler, otherwise you may get zapped with 240v. Now, quite possibly the wires are:- Wires 1+2 are the power supply to...

The wickes stuff is moisture proof, its marketed as such, to be used as a damp proof membrane. Wickes recommend a cement screed over the top, not the latex stuff as previous post, the cement screed can be followed with the latex if required. Yes, there is a danger of moisture getting around...

Would a liquid DPM be useful here? Along with a latex levelling product for the floor. Liquid dpm for the walls also? I suppose it is raising another question regarding the walls "breathing". For the floor a liquid DPM along with the levelling product, both available from Wickes, would...

Try soundstop.co.uk for ideas/solutions/materials :- http://www.soundstop.co.uk/

xr4x4 not amateurs and diy. think electricians here. would that be correct ajrob?

Forgot about pinkgrip, yes that would probably work. Good stuff. Haven't tried that "gun a nail" and since everbuild do it I recon that it will be pretty good. Thanks Monkeh I'll now put that on my wish list and give it a try sometime.

Isn’t it amazing how time flies. Wouldn't the plaster have gone off by now? He will need a new bag.

That stuff is Crap !!! Tried it once, on the same type of job as yourself, will never use it again. Normal silicone sealant does a better job. Or try a foam based adhesive, but that invloves a purchase of a gun which adds to the expense. (not "Expanding foam" it's slightly different)...

Would "pinkgrip dry fix" (or similar, soudal fix n foam?) work in this application. Of indeed, normal "pinkgrip" Not familiar with the K7 board so I'm not entirely sure. Have recently been using the soudal stuff for plasterboard and whole host of other materials and think its pretty good.

Yep, The hole. To soundproof a stud wall, like the one you are describing, it has to be airtight. Sound can find its way through even the smallest gap. The soundproofing people recommend that the plasterboard is offered up to the adjacent wall leaving a 5mm gap, this gap is then filled with...