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we ve just priced a job for an office building and on the specs the footing is to be made from old car tyres and limestone compacted, i was just wondering if anyone else has come across this method, any tips or advice

i ve taken on board everything you ve said and will remember this in future .i think the problem on this forum is that everyone is good at what they do therefore to bow down to someone elses opinion shows weakness,everyone wants to be right including me but i will say that i always take onboard...

it would be hard to get insulation in from below it you d already put up the chicken wire as he does nt want to take up the floor and i think it would snag on the wire but you could put insulation up first then add chicken wire it would be perfectly acceptable but still alot of messing in hardly...

the point i wanted to make was if your taking one thing say scrap you should also take all your crap and also we actually buy alot of property and modernise them so we are the client and owner of the property,but to save face he can have the bloody scrap.

good point softus i m pro plastic love the stuff think it makes life so much easier. i only know of 1 fitting that blew off and that was because it was nt tightened up suppose only time will tell

i was talking to a jg rep and he tod me their life expectancy was about 15 years off the record, but he also said this is about the same as a modern boiler so they should be changed with the boiler,don t shoot the messenger suppose we ll just have to wait and see

HEY NOSEALL JUST READ ANOTHER POST WHERE YOU ADVISED SOMEONE TO USE UPVC SHIPLAP CLADDING INTERNALLY, AND YOU SAY I DONT KNOW WHATS GOING ON. I THINK YOU SHOULD CHANGE YOUR NAME TO NOSEJACK

NOSEALL WHEN I SAID I WAS UNSURE ABOUT USING FOAM I ACTUALLY MEANT ITS PEFORMANCE OVER TIME AS IT S NOT BEEN AROUND FOR THAT LONG, THATS ALL. AND AS FOR YOU ROUGH CASTER I WOULD TELL MY CLIENT TO CONTACT YOU AS YOUR THE BEST IN THE WORLD.FUNNY THING IS NOSEALL ACTUALY SAID IT COULD NT BE...

i m with woody on this one although i m still abit unsure about foam adhesive but it is a much easier option, and obvisiously i would seal any old surfaces.

yeah i d be temted to use anything other than fibre glass because it aint nice to use in a confined space.i d probably use kingspan rigid fixed the oposite way to the direction of the joists and foam any gappy joints t stop the draughts.it might cost a bit more if thats an issue.

would it be possible to build a wall in front. just a suggestion

so then rough caster would you not agree that in this situation dot and dab would have out performed traditional methods

you people are crazy,knowledgible but damn crazy will somene just put an rsj in to support the bloody thing. if it were mine i would nt be happy to just leave it

what about ubi flex we ve just started using it on unseen work like internal valleys. seems to do the job and is much lighter and easier to use.perfect for someone who has nt worked lead before as it s harder than it looks.personally i d never use flash band cos it dont seal nothing

should have dot and dabbed it like rough caster would

me and my mate run a building firm doing mostly extensions when our plumber comes on the he takes all the scrap metal but leaves all his crap so we told him as there our jobs we actually have the right to the scrap and if he wants it he can take all his rubbish and stop filling our skip not a...

rough caster what a fantasically indepth reply thats why your a plasterer

hi dont use concrete on a roof use mortar infact use a roofer he knows what he s doing money spent now is money saved later. if its an old cottage use traditional methods not dry ridge as it does nt suit older style properties in my opinion

just a quick tip to anyone reading this rip it down check everything ie wiring plumbing bang some insulation in reboard and skim much better job.if your too tight to do it properly 2 coats pva smooth using bonding coat then skim.p s make sure all boards are secure if not screw up