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If you don't signwrite your van how does anyone know what you do ?Large it all over and you will get leads.

Rubber based as opposed to Pva water based,Band Q sell it,about £14.00for 5 litre tub

Bit difficult this one Johnmelad,I had the same problem on an old cottage built of Purbeck stone,I think water had permeated the stone and frozen and blown the face edge off in various places.[It had all been painted before] I used SBR to seal and let the stonework breathe but left it for 2...

Untill whoever installed the de-humidifiers/fans etc has signed the property off as dry,as agreed with your insurance company, then your decorator is wasting your time.

13 for me, What about the old gas pokers for fire lighting,great big [or so it seemed] open/shut valve on the hearth, bit of flexi and a flamethrower on the end of it.Imagine Health and Safety on that set up nowadays :shock:

I would go back to the Builders merchant who advised you and ask him for a new bubble for your level,when he goes off to find one I'd speak to his manager about product knowledge. :shock:

Don't really see the point of insulating a ground floor ceiling, as long as your loft is properly insulated it will retain the heat required.

The new DPC will have to be injected below internal floor level to be succesful and prevent the rising damp and it's consequences.Tanking is another method , ie up to existing DPC level but with the exposed internal brickwork it's not really an option.

Hygroscopic salt contamination develops into efflourescence whereby any moisture internally is absorbed by the salts and will always show spoilings such as you have.Eventually they will become deliquescent [ saturated] and then you will have a bigger problem,As posted before have a good look at...

Definately Hygroscopic salt contamination from free water rising to DPC level. Noseall is spot on with recommendations. What are the exterior ground levels like in relation to problem walls? If their anywhere near DPC level they need reducing to below floor height.If rising damp is the problem...

If your new to decorating don't try lining paper, you will not be happy with the outcome if you've not done it before.As Nige f posts, fill and sand but if it is that bad you could consider re- skimming the walls.

Had a few eyefuls myself, always end up with a black eye,mind you if you consider plaster will go off underwater then a few tears and a blob of gypsum? says it all really. :roll:

Looks a right t-t to me! :shock:

And if your radio can be heard outside the confines of your place no doubt the Performing Rights Society will want their cut on top of the radio license fee? :shock:

If you have some oil based undercoat/gloss hanging around then a couple of coats of that will sort the waterstain out, and its cheaper! :wink:

Poit taken :lol:

How old's your property?is it solid exterior walls or cavity construction?If the walls were re-plastered using Gypsum undercoat plaster then that will draw water from the substrate and leave salts within the plaster which will be Hygroscopic,absord moisture, and appear as damp patches.It will...

Now I'me as patient as patient can be but reading that can only be likened to pushing a t_rd uphill with a pointed stick, poitless and not worth the agro, by the way in chapter 1 who's this Omary character?

John D is spot on,it's highly unlikely to be rising damp though a survey would determine this, oh and if this helps,Moulds do not attack wood but feed on the free sugars in the wood cells contained within wallpaper and hardboard etc etc all caused by condensation. As posted ventilation is...

Hmmm! Agree with everything thats been posted by RC and JD,here's another thought,your extractor fan,is it independant of the light switch?whats the humidity setting on it? does it go on forever after a shower? In my experience extractor fans can be a bit fickle, they need to "out" moisture...