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I would think you;ve found it!

could be a number of things, heres a few for starters sludge incorrect open vent/cold feed configuration pump set too fast header tank too low open vent incorrect

the length of gas pipe depends upon the boilers demands on it, and the complexity of the run, the higher the load, and more bends/elbows the larger the pipes will need to be. I'd advise getting your Gas Safe Registered engineer in at this stage

This is all you have to do. Square ice cream containers are good. plenty of dustsheets as well, and take your time. Also use TWO tools, one to undo nut, and more importantly one to hold the valve so it doesn;t twist off pipe! Most valves will shut off, use a small spanner, after...

This is covered in wiki here>> http://www.diynot.com/wiki/plumbing:faq:faq12

He said cooker, but i agree with you, he shouldnt do it, as doesn;t know the regulations to do it to correct standard, i would guess

you didnt say which way it was pointing, then in this case an elbow

because legally he's allowed to do it!

shouldn;t have filters anywhere on the flow & returns! I will check the gas pressures, i did read somewhere else about a faulty meter governor not supplying enough pressure. The brown & red gas valve control box was replaced about 12 months ago, and I think the gas valve too.

cold mains go to your kitchen tap, and your ball valves. The low pressure cold feed goes thro that gate valve, into base of cylinder, then hot water to drawn by the taps from the top. you can back flush at the kitchen, by using a piece of hose between cold & hot taps.

any ideas?

the boiler & heating system is a different system to the hot water system. as I siad you have a airlock, or blockage in your hot water system, you may need to back feed the hot water system, using cold mains, to back flush

I think maxmium screed depth above UFH is 75mm. this might be an answer. http://www.uponorhousingsolutions.co.uk/products/pageProdDetail.aspx?PgID=89&Cat=New%20Products

seems you have a airlock in your domestic hot water system. how about the other hot taps, how are they?

add some commas ^^^^^^^^ if the fan is working but not igniting, then is an air pressure switch problem

first retry recharging the vessel, you still need to depressurise the system to do this. if you do need a new expansion vessel, then you may wanna think about installing a new one, elsewhere, to save getting old one out.

you are correct, but a system shouldn't need bleeding at all, if running correctly. you can vent when you fill, from manual vent on the high hot water flow pipe.

you;ve stripped the thread. you'll need a new float valve to sort it

no problem if vent not on highest point. you;ll need to put a manual air vent on the old open vent postition. The new open vent should be connected before the new cold feed within 6", and before the pump. so order on flow pipe is boiler, open vent, cold feed, pump, 3 port valve

i button will give you a status code.. S.31 the guage on bottom right, should be enough, providing needle in green/grey section then its fine Four grey buttons under screen, lower left is the minus or "-" which will give pressure