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need to identify your model of router, i would give the manufacturer or the company you bought it off a call for a start. otherwise there may be a bit of trial and error finding one that fits.

firstly, if it's hard to the touch why do you suspect it of being rotten? if it's just the surface unevenness then maybe it's been filled already? assuming it is rotten over most of the frame width as it appears it's an opening sash so 1) it will be hard to make the joint strong enough...

external glazing is very common and is not insecure if done right. the glass is very hard to remove even with someone on the inside cutting the tape. some systems have a wedge gasket on the inside that needs to be removed first. do not worry yourself about it if the tape has been used. as...

the convection current would have to be very strong to move the curtains. is probably air leakage round the frame, opening sashes or the units (least likely).

yes you can do it with a template guided router cutter plunging 6mm each pass (up to 50mm depth) , then cut off the remainder with a hand saw or jigsaw from the other side. finally use a flush trim cutter from the rough side. you must be careful of the grain direction though. up to 50mm depth...

there are some PDF's here http://www.fallowfieldwindowsdirect.co.uk/specs.htm and lots of info in the ebook here - http://www.adrive.com/public/42f5d37feb7dd16c697178a4d6cc048dc8ab52327bddb191220854372eaff746.html

if you can get the mouldings you want you can take out a rebate for the door stile using a table saw, router or bench planer (in my order of preference). or even glue two mouldings together back to back. if the damaged parts are small enough, can you (or someone with a good eye for these...

a lot of "oil"s are not pure oil but have driers and hardeners like polyurethane added. sounds like yours has a lot of that. tung and linseed are the only pure oils that are commonly used for this job but will need a lot of coats and maintenance. a green scouring pad is ideal for taking off...

Friction hinges can be adjusted or replaced to make them close properly. If they are leaking air though, that would normally stop condensation. Try gripping a piece of paper in the seals on the openers or see if you can narrow down the location of the cold draught. Trickle vents are a...

This will be the condensate pipe from a condensing boiler i think. It would normally be brought down to ground level though I am not sure if that is a requirement. It is normal for it to drip in spurts when the heating is on.

if a plain unrebated door casing is used (unlikely for an external door) you can always lift the door stop bead and replace it to suit the warp. for a rebated door frame, you could adjust the lock keep so it stands further away from the rebate and closes with minimal force (but hopefully...

you will want to adjust the relative plumb of the hinges looking at the hinge side door jamb from the lock side door jamb. to make them more inclined to close, the lower hinge will want to be further away from the door stop or rebate on the frame. you may have trouble moving it a couple of mm...

all the oils including osmo will darken to a certain extent and pine is naturally yellow as well. i did my pine stairs with a light oak osmo undercoat before 2 coats of polyx and i'm very happy with it as it covered a lot of the uneven tones (they were also stripped). you could do a test with...

i would oil afterwards if possible, or clean off the surface oil first. scrubbing with detergent could be the safest way of doing that without damaging the adjacent surface. top the oil up again afterwards. unlike silicone this sealant will not repel the oil.

only FENSA members are allowed to certify shoddy work! seriously building control are generally quite helpful and not "nit pickers" in my experience. key is to have a good chat with them first about what they will be looking for. then make sure you get units that conform to the building regs...

not much option to get high spec units with that rebate depth, can you increase it? planitherm is a soft coat and superior to K which is a hard coat. have a read here as well - http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/misty-wood.htm and http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/wooden_windows_drainage.htm

square edged worktops just need a good butt joint but solid wood shouldn't be glued (restrains movement across the grain). if there is a profile on the edge that is to be kept (laminate worktop) then a masons mitre is used. with solid wood the edge profile is usually put on after with a router...

osmo polyx oil is a good "best of both worlds", penetrates and nourishes, forms a durable skin, can be easily topped up and repaired.

i don't think any worktops that are glued from small staves are going to last that long outside. sometimes people mistake "water resistant glue" for "water resistant unit".

you can get a drill stand with a depth stop quite cheap. i got one from aldi that does the job.