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window scraper should be ok for tiles and sink. cupboard doors maybe a blunter scraper like a filler knife. then scotchbrite pad. all of the above with white spirit to soften it, and repeat...

imperial timber on chorlton road are prob as good as any. if you want the biggest range of designs & sizes you might need one of the big guys in trafford park - irmass, illingworth ingham. trafford timber centre in stretford and atlantic in altrincham also give very good service.

or use gripfill or similar?

i would use a clear non-silicone sealant (doesn't interfere with the oil) like this for example http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9254341 if it has "paintable" and "cleans up with water" on the label you should be ok. you will need some "stretcher plates" for...

[/url] to be exact - it would require building control approval or FENSA if the new door consists of more than 50% glazing (including sidelights, fanlights etc;)

yes i was assuming it's solid or engineered oak

it was the other company trying to cast aspersions! sounds like rubbish to me. 6.4mm glass shouldn't be enough to overload a frame or hinges (tripled glazed maybe...) i certainly wouldn't want anything to do with a company that talks that kind of nonsense.

is it bare wood at the moment? have a look at osmo uv protection oil if you want a clear finish. in my opinion this type of finish is better than a varnish or stain that forms a skin that will eventually flake and peel. then you've got to use the same product or sand it right back. this...

i disagree - water / water vapour should be encouraged out of the glazing rebate - a clear air gap all round and a drain/vent at the bottom should be provided. there is some good info here - http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/wood_drainage_files/wooden_windows_drainage.pdf

brand new softwood from B&Q or anywhere else is probably the least durable. pressure treated might be the best you can get easily. ideally get yourself to a reclaim yard for a bit of decent old softwood or pitch pine. add loads of extra preservative, great weather for it - it will dry out and...

it's only the glue in exterior/marine ply that is exterior grade so make sure the water can't get to the end grain or it'll be bubbling up before long. brace some stable wood (reclaim?). Brand new stuff will be bending all over the place.

the quality of timber windows varies dramatically, lots of design flaws that cause them to rot. timberwindows.com are on to most of these problems it hink. you should be looking for drained and ventilated glazing units, falls to all horizontal surfaces, including inside the windows. factory...

check for a leak between the frame and wall outside, if not there then start looking upwards. it could be at the head (top) of the frame to lintel joint or anywhere above the leak right up to and including the roof.

you could try a bit of acrylic sealant or similar to hold the weatherseal in. can you use the door closing action to hold it in whilst the sealant goes off? grab adhesive would def work but not easy to change in the future. just noticed you only have a 2mm gap. beware a vseal will not...

have look round for larch, sweet chestnut or western red cedar cladding there are a few suppliers down your way and you could go with sawn and untreated if that suits.

no such thing as external grade ply, and do loads of work routing half of it out again to make it look like timber boards? strange. it'll be lighter in weight i'll give you that. and if you only want it to last 5-10 years then away you go but seems like a lot of trouble to be doing it again so...

decking timber is widely available and will do fine if you can tolerate grooves on one side. make sure your adjacent walls or whatever are well strong enough to take the weight of the gate with leverage. maybe add a separate concreted post and bolt it back to the wall, let them take it together...

bearing guided biscuit joint router bit is about £6 or borrow your mate's and try it that way. either way you need to hold the workpiece - cramps and that friction mat stuff are very useful for this and zillions of other jobs.

osmo polyx oil is two coats. it's a compromise between varnish and oil. for sealant try paintable all purpose sealants available at b&q for example. they don't repel everything else like silicone does.

try a green dish scouring pad to "denib" it