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any scheme that may exist in the future would surely not be for C rated products anyway.

condensation occurs on cold shiny surfaces first so a warmer room temp inside would lead to a warmer outer pane temp = less problem. either way, the fact that youy have a cold exterior pane is a sign that your units are leaking very little heat to the outside. a lot of new units now will be...

if it worked, professionals would use it. you need to remove old silicone fully, reseal, and preferably fit a drip so that water is not running across the top and sides of your door and frame where it will find a way in somewhere eventually. finished.

to give strength to a sealant against thermal and other movements it needs a certain amount of depth, usually the width of the joint is about right. this product is like putting clingfilm over the cracks. are you sure that the water is inflitrating between the lintel and frame? i had a...

this is like papering over the cracks.

some kind of drip to shed the water falling down the wall, before it has a chance to get to the gap, will be a great help. otherwise mastic, silicone etc; should all do the job. all-weather sealants that stick to wet surfaces could be useful to you, but they are very sticky and unpleasant to...

thinnest double glazed unit is 14mm, 4+6+4. or if you just want sound reduction you could use 10mm float single glazed. making sure your door is 100% airtight, including the bottom, will go a long way to make it sound proof and warm.

yes at this time of year especially getting them to dry in a day is hard. you can have them shop painted. they will have to be installed glazed though and big fixed lights will be heavy. openers can just be hung after carefully fitting the frame (it mustn't be distorted during fitting)

ironmongery direct will have all the stuff you're looking for if you can't find it in your local merchants.

http://www.upvcwindow-doorparts.co.uk/Product/1157/MILA/FRICTION%20HINGE%20PROTECTOR it's to resist the window being levered open on the hinge side when friction hinges are used.

make sure you are only testing one seal at a time by just putting the edge of the paper in. do it all round the seal on every opener.

the fitting around the frame to the wall sounds ok. have you checked around the openers? try pinching a bit of paper in the seal. there should be resistance to pulling it out when the opener is closed.

sounds like the openers are not sealing correctly, and / or the windows are not correctly sealed around the edges. if so the company should be called back. you could also try closing the trickle vents if fitted and see if this helps. noise = passage of air = coldness coming in this winter =...

if it's an espag lock, you could try removing the handle and tightening the screws under the lock mechanism. this might lift the espag mechanism up into the window again if the screws will bite. if not you could try a marginally wider screw to get a bite. do it by hand, put the cordless away!

i agree that fensa are not the guarantee of quality that they lead people to believe, and a complete waste of time in my opinion also. but structural support is in the building reg requirements for replacement windows and is thus not a "workmanship" issue that they can deny involvement with...

polyurethane water based varnish aka quick drying varnish is non yellowing. you will probably want matt finish. oils are nice but do darken the wood to some extent. osmo hardwax polyx oil is not too yellowing and gives a good hardwearing finish.

silicone may have trouble adhering to the worktop if it is too oily. maybe sand it lightly along the seal line.

do you want to do them in timber? conventional way is to make them out of 4 (or more) pieces with the right curve cut on them using a band saw. then jointed together and do the final trim after they are jointed using a spindle moulder or router running to a template.. jig saw probably will...

but also so need to obtain 3.0W/m2 overall for replacement doors which i wasn't aware of before.