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OK :roll:

Photobucket is the way forward. not much more to see really!?

Had a very constructive chat with the local building department. Subject to a visit they said I might only need 500mm, this was when I mentioned the house next to it doesn't have foundations and the stone only goes 18" down!! Better get my spade out.

Funnily enough he did, for some reason his new one could only get within £50 though! Very true about gas safe 'engineer'. Don't get me chuntering about the overuse of the term 'engineer'!!!!

I mean in the context of the customer actually talking to the spark first and buying good quality stuff. My best mate is a gas man, he shown me a quote from where he buys all his boilers from, he's that suppliers best customer for that make of boiler(viesmann), I had an hour on line and...

As long as you know what you're doing I would disregard most of the above. I had a chat with a few local 'trusted' sparks. They love this sort of thing as its just crappy messy work and they don't want to do it given the choice. As for not working with stuff you supplied, normally thats...

Its going to be 2.5 ft from other properties.

Hi all. I'm going to have an oak framed garage made, double bay, about 7x6m so will need building regs(its also closer to the road than the house and within 1m of next doors garage). Regarding foundations, it'll sit on a dwarf wall, some oak frame suppliers say that I basically just...

surely the idea of a chemical injection is that its spreads horizontal though a level course to form a 'barrier'. I can't see how it'd work in brick... I'd ask what they used and read how it should be applied.

Also the idiots injected the bricks not the cement course.

Remember to get the cowboys back for a refund. I wouldn't tank the internal wall as the moisture has to go somewhere, it'd effectively mask the problem which I don't think is the right way to go about it. If the driveway is to blame(you've not had cavity wall insulation have you?), and...

I'd point flush and it'll look nice and rustic.

The use of cement is the issue, its causing moisture to escape through the sandstone which is effecting its integrity. Remove the cement and re-point in lime.

Have you thought about getting your cash back from the damp cowboys who suggested a chemical DPC would be the answer? These guys really do sell snake oil.

I'm 10000% not going to diy it!

I think i've got to have an 'L' shaped part of my house rebuilt, its goes round a corner and its cob on a stone base. The cob seems to be failing, this is lower only, the upper is brick. 2 sides of an l, one 2m the other 3m. Is it a very difficult job? I guess it a bit expensive?

Thanks, just trying to undo years of wrong!

How much lower should exterior ground levels be when I've got solid floors and walls? I've read 150mm somewhere, is this about right?

I know the floor will be cooler, however its on about 1.5ft of raised earth that'll insulate it to a degree, its only a central passage with the front door one side, back door the other. Its currently got 6 inch of concrete direct to the earth, from a building regs point of view I'm not...

Erm, yes... I want the floor to breathe, its what would have been fitted originally when the house was built.