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It's the countryside so we do have mice, not sure if they are in the loft though. Can't see much if I shine a torch down there as it's too far. Note that the house is L shaped with the consumer unit at one end and the outside cable at the other. So it's at least 25m of cable, probably a lot...

I can't. All I can access is the outside cable and the light switch. The outside cable has SL, N and E. The switch has L, SL and E. If I terminate all 3 wires in the switch then the outside cable is no longer live but the N and E will still be connected back to the consumer unit won't they? The...

To recap: The MCB is tripping with nothing turned on on that circuit. It only feeds the lights to one room, a cupboard and the dodgy cable outside. It only happens when it rains. It started 2 weeks after I installed an outside light as I didn't like the look of the taped up cable poking out of...

It's an MCB, see attachment. However, am I right in saying that the 4 circuits on the left are not protected by the RCD which explains why the RCD is not tripping?

It's raining again and the MCB has tripped. This is with the light fitting removed and the cable in a connection block and taped up.

Yes. No. Once the wet weather started, the MCB tripped. I have never used the light other than to occasionally test it works. The light was off the entire 48 hour period that the MCB was tripping. The MCB would then not reset until I disconnected the light and taped up the cable. I think you...

PS The light is an 8W LED. I bought 2 of them so have put the tripping one in the other location now just to prove it's not the light causing it.

I found a T&E sticking out of an external wall wrapped in electrical tape. I got no reading from it, but after flicking a light switch on the wall inside it read 240V. I assumed it must have been an outside light at some point so I installed an IP54 outside light. It's not a PIR light, just a...

I was worried that would be the case. There's no way I can heat a 13m x 6m workshop, it will cost a fortune. I think I'll be better off just making more storage in the house, using the eaves.

The room temp is showing 12C now. There's not much variation on the surfaces - the concrete floor is 9C, insulated walls are 11C and the insulated ceiling is 10C. It's not a shed, it's a 13m x 6m workshop made out of breeze blocks. The inside is insulated and the outside is rendered. There are...

The outside temperature is 18C and the humidity is 47% Inside the workshop it's 14C. The humidity was 80% but after a month of running the dehumidifier is down to 70%.

The windows don't open. There are doors at both ends and they are wooden so I was thinking of cutting big holes in them and covering with a vent grille but not sure if I'd end up letting more damp cold air in than out.

I bought a house a few months ago that has an outbuilding. The previous owner used the building for woodworking but I will just be using it for storage. The mould is so bad though that anything I put in there is ruined in no time. It was not mouldy when we first bought the house. The previous...

According to this thread, building regs state that cavities must be closed at the top: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/closing-cavity-at-the-top-of-the-wall.332139/ You can buy 'cavity closers' at screwfix, wickes etc.

OK thanks. I can't see me making this work as a warm design. Seems a shame someone went to all the bother of cutting and fitting that insulation between the rafters when it's a pointless waste of time and money. I'll focus on insulating the dwarf wall and cupboard doors and leaving the roof as...

I'd prefer the wardrobe design option, but only if the ventilation is ok as is. If not I'll just insulate the cupboard doors as alistair said. I guess it comes down to whether the membrane behind the insulation is breathable or not? It's the black plasticy stuff shown below. I guess it's not...

As John says then, all the expensive insulation is pointless if the eaves are vented. There's no heat to keep in. Should I remove it from the rafters and stick it to the back of the dwarf wall and cupboard doors?

Only gaps I can find are along the edge of the roof

Hi, thanks. I've no idea who did it or how long ago, I've only lived here a few weeks. I hope there's a breathable membrane above, then I'm safe to just block any holes I find without worrying about ventilation right? Shall I peel off some of that celotex type stuff between the rafters and post...

My bedroom is in a converted loft. The eaves have been made into storage cupboards with little doors on. When it's windy, the noise of the wind in the eaves cupboards wakes me up. It also blasts open the cupboard doors and they start slamming. There is insulation between the rafters and under...