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I don't know if the flow is restricted, can't see anywhere where it would be unless its internal to the softener. And can you explain why the system would be the same as a combi with home booster if all my pipe work is already there for a tank etc?

Yep, thanks for your help, finally come to a conclusion. Now to get some quotes!

Sorry I thought you were making 2 separate points. So what you mean is that you would fit the Home Booster AND then fit a system/unvented? That makes more sense but actually like you said, that cost is way above what we can justify. I think looking at all the options, the only benefit we...

But everywhere I read says to warrant an unvented cylinder you need 20 l/min+ Is that not true?

That was measured from the kitchen tap, pressure was measured from the outside tap. But surely it doesn't really matter if the flow rate from the softener is 11 anyway, as that is what we will be using.

well I meant the flow rate when nothing else is running. But yes, I am coming to the same conclusion. Probably put a system boiler in the loft, and keep the cold water cistern and the hot water cylinder (though maybe increase the size as we like long showers), and replace our current faulty...

Hi All I have been trying to decide on a new boiler system for weeks now since moving into our new house. We are having the electrics done next week and would like the boiler done not soon after to minimise the upheaval so that we can move in properly and unpack. So many engineers have...

Thats fine, don't mind it being a useless switch under the worktop, as that's what I have now. And sorry I missed everyone saying it was fine before I updated this thread so sorry if i sounded like i was repeating myself. Thanks to all. I will fit a 20A DP Switch like this...

Cant get a picture but the diagram is accurate, not sure how a picture would make it clearer. I just want to know if, according to the picture, I can replace the 13A FCU with a 20A DP switch as mentioned above

Can anyone confirm my diagram as I need to get the bits tonight for fitting. Thanks

Here's a quick and crude drawing of my plans based on what i thin kis now fine to do. Does it look ok? Is any of this notifiable work?

Yes that is exactly the thing I was looking to do. I didnt know what the correct rating needed to be for the switch or flex outlet plate. So 20A is fine and not too high?

Sorry I think there was a bit of confusion in my last message. I am aware of the difference but I wasn't clear. So I have the cooker connection unit on the wall, from here there is a cable to a 13A FCU, and a cable direct to the Hob. Im not doing anything with the CCU, what I wanted to know...

Ok the cable going from the cooker point to both the hob and the FCU appear to be at least 4mm2 and judging by the measurements here: http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:cable_types:flatpvccables They actually appear to be probably 6mm2 cables. With regards to the exisiting FCU, it is some...

I've just looked at the old hob actually and that is rated at 7kW on the device itself, so more than the new one, so I think we are safe on that front. In terms of the new oven, the model is HBN331E2B. Putting that into the Bosch manual site, it gives loads of results...

And just to add, the hob is 6.2kW. With the oven that is a total of 8550W, so around 35-36A, but am I right to assume that will be ok when taking diversity into account?

I am having a new Bosch single oven delivered tomorrow. Currently, I have a 32A MCB feeding a cooker isolation point. From there, there is a direct wire to the electric hob and another wire to a 13A FCU which the old oven was connected to. I purchased a new hob and oven with the intention of...