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It looks like a thermistor Set your multimeter to read at it's highest resistance option. Thermistors can have very high resistance. Basically It changes resistance as it's temperature changes. so you wouldnt expect it to be open circuit. The best way to check it is in range is to...

if the fan is connected to that switch AND you have checked with your multiimeter that the switch is "Closed Circuit", eg electricity can pass from one terminal to the other. It should be the opposite in a cold state. It can't really be anything else. The blue wire will be going to the...

plug it in and use it normally. The plumbing is just to feed water to the ice maker and the water dispenser and is completely separate from the cooling system Holiday mode is for when you are on holiday

The solid hotplate element is actually made up of a number of elements all combined into 1 assembly. For clarity, lets call these internal elements "Circuits" The selector switch setting defines which "circuits" on the solid plate are in use. Setting 1 will use 1 circuit, so it doesnt get...

Sounds like a solid hotplate element and if so it will need to be replaced. As to how easy it is, for me its a doddle, but i've done hundreds of them. Depends on your level of confidence and how practical you are.

The washing machine pump is designed to work with the length of drain hose that the appliance comes with. It is only when kitchen fitters extend this by coupling 2 drain hoses together that problems can arise.

Do not push the drain hose fully into the stand pipe. There needs to be an air gap between the end of the drain hose and the water level in the plumbing stand pipe, otherwise you can get a syphoning effect, which is water being sucked back into the washing machine. A small grey curved pipe...

The two wires that are coming out of the back near the cooling fan. (Blue and white). They are the cooling fan wires. Trace them One is likely to go to the terminal block (Probably the blue one). The other one will be connected to the fan cut in. This may very well be the Thermal switch...

Firstly I would check the thermal switch, just to make sure it is that (99.9% sure). It should only take you a few minutes to remove the "plugs" for the hotplate, which depending on how old the appliance is can be one of two types, both of which are plastic "Plug Type A" has a flatpoint...

Placing loose packing underneath to level the washer up isn't going to work. Make sure the "Packing" is screwed to the floor, so that it becomes more stable and isnt going to move when the washer does it's little wobble on spin Use a decent size of timber too, not just enough so that the foot...

The hotplate is the white top that the hob burners and pan stands sit on. There are 2 plastic buttons fitted along each side of the hotplate. These will need to be removed to raise the hotplate up. You will then be able to hinge the hotplate up at the front end. Support it by using one of the...

It looks like a Stoves/NewWorld build, looking at the photo This is likely to be operated by a "Thermal Cut In" switch It should be open circuit when cold and closed circuit when it reaches it's trigger temperature. The component will be a little button stat fitted above the grill...

It sounds like you have a neutral fault, when you are turning on the stat, heating circuit. the stir fan is losing its neutral. So you are looking for a break on the neutral side of the wiring

The cause of this is the energy regulator. Each element has one, its the part that the control knob pushed on to The energy regulators cause the actual ceramic element to cycle on and off. So on lower settings, the cycle "On" time (When the elements are glowing) should be less, than on...

It is not advisable to extend a drain hose. The drainage system should be brought closer to the appliance, eg extend the plumbing to the washer. The drain pump is designed to pump water to the extent of the drain hose, no further. The joint is also a great place for the fluff and other...

The company I work for gave me one of these as part of my toolkit. When it broke, I bought the thinnest fine flat point i could from B&Q, which was an electrical screwdriver. I had to shave the insulation off, so that the metal part of the shaft was long enough to reach inside the tap stem and...

E9 error on a WB R 35 HE Plus condenser. UPDATE I have found the cause of the E9 error. The Heat Exchanger safety temp limiter is going open circuit when the Heat exchanger surface temperature near the sensor reaches 112 deg C I have no idea if this is the correct trip temperature or...